Question about Honda Odyssey
the first test. is jumper cable cranks.
the lights only use 1/50th the current of a starter, and dont prove anything. (eg. bad batteries do run lights great, can prove.)
juimp start it,
good, yes. bad battery; battery dischanged,or bad charging system
or left on the lights. too long.
bad jump, this means the cranking system is bad.
1: cables from battery to starter, corroded.
2: bad cables. split open and green copper everywhere.
3: I hot wire the stater solenoid, if fails (good battery and cables )
then it is a bad starter, (i hit it with a hammer, and bam it cranks
great tick to get of of big time trouble , far off grid or? danger zones...
4: hot wire fails.
bad KEY line.
if key oine fails wiggle the A/T shift handle, cranks now?
try neutral cranking, (fresher contacts here, magic happens)
IF a stick shift car nows the time.....
ask how to hot wire or look here.
see test 1 here "hot wiring techniques"
I have M/T and park on hills and start by rolling starts.
i dont need a good battery, in my 1968 xxxxx (1/2 joking)
Posted on Jan 04, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
P0420 relates to the catalytic converter. The computer sees little or no improvement in the exhaust before and after going through the converter. Either your oxygen sensors need replacement (3 total) or you need a new catalytic converter.
What is the mileage on the vehicle? Does it run well? Oxygen sensors generally start to fail after 70,000 miles. Catalytic converters usually fail because the engine is runnig rich and the owner ignores that fault for months. This causes the catalytic converter to overheat and fail.
P1456 relates to the evaporative emission system. This system holds the gas fumes in the system so they are not vented to the atmosphere. The most common cause of this code being set is failing to properly tighten the gas cap after refueling. Take the cap off and clean the sealing O-ring. Put it back on and tighten till it clicks 3 times. Make sure you have the correct gray colored gas cap. Clear the code and see if it resets within a few days. If it does, try replacing the gas cap.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
open the rear hatch. Between the tail light housing and the rear hatch opening there is a trim strip with two flush fitted flap doors. Insert a small straight blade screwdriver into the small slot on the tail light side of the flap. Pry gently inboard and the small flap will open (the hinge side of the flap is on the side of the rear hatch opening.) Now you can remove the screws that hold the tail lamp assembly in place. Finally, there is still a "spear point" clip that fits into a socket near the front outboard corner of the assembly. Gently pry with a tape wrapped screwdriver (avoids scratches) and force the assembly straight back. The clip should release and free the assembly so you can change the bulb(s).
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
It should be your brake light switch. There is a little plate welded to the arm of the pedal that has a hole with a rubber stopper. The rubber stopper is most likely missing, or damaged. You should be able to take a flashlight and see the plate and the switch. If the hole is plugged up, you will need the brake light switch, if not, replace the plug.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
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