A/c problem a/c hot on start up if left in the heat all day. The a

what sub model accord, v6 LX ,
manual or full climate control option??? guess full.
fuses not checked PCM scanned for DTC errors EVAC, hopeless/?
so car starts and runs sand drives ok, <<< not told that.
yes the AC brain on most modern cars is BCM brain controls
and the brain does control the AC compressor. if that is dead so be AC, THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH, is run by PCM RELAY.
NOT TOLD OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE NOR COUNTRY../
HERE IS A LIST.
1: CHECK ALL FUSES FIRST, CAB AND ENGINE BAY ALL FUSE BOXES SKIP NONE.
2: CHECK IP CLUSTER FOR ERRORS ,ALARMS ERRORS OR LAMPS GLOWING OR IMMO LAMP SHOWS IMMO IS UNHAPPY, MODE.
3: ENGINE STARTS AND RUNS AND CAR DRIVES.?????????
4: HEAD LAMPS WORK KEY ON AND OFF. ,
5: OTHER ELECTRIC FAILURES OR JUST THE BLOWER ONLY?
6: SCAN THE pcM FOR ERRORS, AC IS CUT DEAD EVEN FOR ENGINE OVERHEATING OR OVERLOADED !!! OR IN LIMP MODE/
yah can't fix modern cars lacking a scan tool, no way./

bLOWER FACTS
PER THE SM BOOK REAL

THERE IS A BLOWER RELAY AND SOME FUSES. 12VDC SIDE.
FUSE 30 DASH
AND 21 HOOD, BOTH MUST BE GOOD. and fuse 12 V6
THE bLOWER gets GROUND FROM THIS
Audio-HVAC--Display Panel
l AND ITS BLOW POWER TRANSISTOR MODULE
SO WE KNOW THE TRANSISTOR IS off. IS CAUSE 1.
ONLY WHY REMAINS!!!!
YES THE CONTROLLER DOES NOT WANT TO RUN ANY DEAD BLOWER AND RISK ICE DAMAGE TO THE EVAP CORE.

THE Audio-HVAC Display Panel, READS MOTOR SPEED ACTUAL. speed (a kind blower tachometer wire)
IF SAY A INSECTS NEST JAMMED UP THE BLOWER FAN
THE AUDIO -HVAC, MODULE SEE THAT AND CUTS AC DEAD BY DESIGN AND HARD GOOD REASons/
the THE Audio-HVAC , has the ICE up sensor and monitors R134a
high/low switch and if wrong, tells the PCM to shut down its
Clutch solenoid to compressor ending all AC .
I am no sure what blower does.
but I can say this tell of blower works in heat mode or blower + no AC no HEAT mode. yes then the blower is not bad, nor the controller
what is wring is inputs to the controller are dead wrong
and not scanning the PCM after fuses is why you don't know.

l;earn now this works
Audio-HVAC
Display
Module
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp



not checking fuses first then scanning the PCm is why answers simple are not found.

like these and scads more.

Trouble Code: HVAC 12 (3.0L V6 VIN - Std)
A Problem in the Blower Motor Circuit

Trouble Code: HVAC 13 (3.0L V6 VIN - Std)
HVAC Control Unit Internal Error


Trouble Code: HVAC 14 (3.0L V6 VIN - Std)
An Open in the Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit (ICE Up preventions)

Trouble Code: HVAC 15 (3.0L V6 VIN - Std)
A Short in the Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit(ICE UP)

dash heater dead. F150 2011 (or varied)
first the engine must get hot, fully and stay not and not vary.(much)
this is called a thermostat, and most have a life span of 7 years.
yours is 11 years old. so is due.
run engine until fully hot, 10miles will do it. ,less in summer.
connect any scan tool (real, not lame code readers)
see PID value for ECT, 180 to 200f is normal thermostat temp.
test 1 now complete, it is or it is not at proper temp. steady parked.
not proper it is bad.thermostat , replace it with oEM spec stat.
IS PROPER temp !
the dampers are failing on the dash heater core, we test those next.
or controls to them. On my car I can even remove the damper motors and turn the damper shafts by hand to prove they work or not.
spec 5.0Liter
Starts to open 87.5°C (189.5°F) Fully open 100°C (212°F) 200f par

use the scan too to see if there is HVAC DTC errors.
or ECT errors. engine too cold etc. (it uses a timer to gauge if it is late reaching proper engine temp.
all heater heat comes from the coolant, you know that fact right?
P0125 (may happen with below)
P0128 <<<<<< bad stat. replace it;

When you start your car the engine is cold. Once it heats up the air being blown will be warmer. Your AC needs to be charged there is no freon left to produce the cold air.

Its best to evacuate the a/c but if you are careful you may be able to hook up your freon tank and lightly charge the system if it works cold just let it be and if when it is real hot it feels warm instead of cold you might add just a little more freon but be careful.

How do you know the freon is ok...........it could be a blend door in the dash that controls temp from hot to cold. Do you feel or hear a difference when you switch the temp from hot to cold?

My lincoln had the same issue, first it was the A/C compressor (original). I replaced it with another one (used) and worked for 1 month. Then back to hot air. "A/C experts" told me the compressor was out again. I took it to a Mexican auto shop, old building where the guy works alone and to my surprise...HE FOUND THE PROBLEM!! There was no freon leaks, the lines were freezing cold inside the motor, checked freon>>full. He then checked the filter. This filter is on the end of the line where it is crimped that allows the freon to flow thru. Im no mechanic so explaining what it is, forgive me. I can only show you...the line is silver ad in front of you by the radiator, and its the same tube that goes to where you plug it to add freon. There is a filter that was clogged up and prevented the freon from flowing. He removed all the freon, vacuumed out the system/line, and replaced the filter for less that $3.00. Added freon and his cost was $80.00. Thank God for honest people who work hard for a living. I buy the parts, he replaces and I continue to give him my business. Other expensive auto shops with fancy buildings/prices My Lincoln Mark LT now blows arctic cold air!!!

if full off freon. check system for a leak. that is the most logical solution to this problem.

expansion valve setting probably needs adjusting for correct super heat setting.

make sure blend door is moving when you select hot or cold.(under dash watch levers moving when changing from hot>cold.

You need to re-fill your Freon gas, he is finished real fast...