Question about 2001 Toyota Camry

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Freeze Plug I am swithcing the freeze plug on a 96 camry on the back of the engine where the block and transmission connect. This requires the engine to be removed, has anyone ever did this? I need some pointers

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My 89 camry 4 cylinder is leaking water from under the distributer cap.
Some where from the motor. Where do you think its coming from?

Posted on Feb 24, 2013

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Major job without the right tools! There are freeze plugs hidden by the bell housing on the trans. If you can see the plug without pulling the trans, use a long punch and knock the plug out(poke a hole in one edge and pry out).If you can't see the plug pull the trans. replace the plug. (you need an engine holder to hold the engine in place from the top.

Posted on May 22, 2009

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1 Answer

Do I need to remove my transmission to change the freeze plug in a 2001 Kia Rio?


There are many freeze plugs in the block and heads of engines. Some may very well require the removal of the transmission, others may require removal of the entire engine. It is all a matter of where the freeze plug is located and the accessibility to it for replacement.

Sep 12, 2016 | 2001 Kia Rio

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Got a leak at the back of the engine after a freeze on a 1996 Ford f-150 v8 where are the freeze plugs back there


You have to remove the transmission to get to the freeze plugs on the back of the engine. Remove transmission and flywheel and you will see the freeze plug. Replace the plugs in the side of the block as well if you replace them.

Dec 09, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace freeze plug


If you look on the side of an engine block you will see a line of circular depressions about an inch and a half in diameter and about a quarter of an inch deep. These are actually holes in the side of the engine block which are plugged with a dish shaped metal plug called a "freeze plug" or "expansion plug".

WHAT FREEZE PLUGS DO

As with many things on a car, there is an "official reason" and a "REAL" reason for freeze plugs. The official reason (and the source of the name) is this: If you run just water with no antifreeze in your car the water can freeze. When water freezes, it expands. If water freezes inside your engine block, it can expand and crack the block, destroying the motor. Freeze plugs (or expansion plugs) will "pop out" and supposedly prevent this. In reality this doesn't work all the time: I've seen MANY blocks destroyed by cracking without the freeze plugs popping out, or if they do pop out the block cracks anyway.

THE REAL PURPOSE OF FREEZE PLUGS

Engines are "sand cast". A special type of sand is poured into a pair of boxes. A "die" is pressed into the sand, making an impression of the engine block to be cast. The sections of the mold are then put together and molten iron is poured in, forming the engine. This is why engines have a rough texture on most areas: this is the texture of the sand used to cast them.

There have to be "cylinders" made of sand in the middle of this mold to create the cylinders of the engine block. These chunks of sand can't just "float" inside the mold: SOMETHING has to hold them in place. There are little columns of sand that connect the cylinder mold to the outer mold half. The mold for the cylinder "sits" on top of these. After the block is cast, these holes are machined smooth and a "freeze plug" is put in to plug the hole.

THE PROBLEM WITH FREEZE PLUGS

The problem with freeze plugs is that they are made of very thin metal, AND THEY RUST!!! From the factory they are made of galvanized steel, and if you always run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze you should never have a problem. Unfortunately many people don't do this, and the freeze plugs rust through, creating a coolant leak.

When I replace freeze plugs or rebuild an engine I always use brass plugs: they only cost a tiny bit more and will not rust through. The manufacturers, of course, will save a penny anywhere they can: pennies add up to millions of dollars!

SIGNS OF BAD FREEZE PLUGS

If you have a bad freeze plug your vehicle will leak coolant. Freeze plugs are in different places on different cars, but normally they will be down the side of the block (at least 3 of them) and in the back of the block, between the engine and the transmission. Some are fairly easy to get to, others require removing various parts off the engine, some even require removing the transmission or engine to replace! Some cylinder heads also have smaller plugs in them, often under the intake or exhaust manifold.

So if you have water leaking down the side of your engine, or water leaking from the hole in the bell housing between the engine and transmission, you probably have a bad freeze plug.

FREEZE PLUG REPAIR

If the leak is slow and small, a stop leak or block seal compound might work. I have had good luck with K&W Liquid Block Seal: it's good stuff! Of course, as with any "rig" of this sort, it might not work, might not last for long, and could clog up something else in your cooling system. The right way to fix it is to replace the freeze plug.

FREEZE PLUG REPLACEMENT

To remove a freeze plug, first hammer it into the block with a big screwdriver or a large punch. It won't go far into a modern engine: there isn't much room behind the plug. When it "pops through" you can easily pry it back out of the hole sideways with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the surface of the hole where the plug sits, or it could leak around the circumference of the new plug.
After the plug is removed, clean the hole in the block with sandpaper to remove the corrosion and old sealant. Once again, if you don't do this the new one might leak.

Normal freeze plugs are hammered in with some sealant around them. I use aviation grade Permatex sealer. If you can't get to them to do this, you have to take off whatever parts are in the way to access the plug. If access is limited, they make replacement freeze plugs made of copper and also ones made of rubber with a nut on them which expands the plug against the block when tightened. I have had bad luck with the rubber type: they blow back out quite often. I have had good results with the copper type (made by Dorman).
I have not had good results with either type on Ford products: Ford for some reason makes their freeze plugs in "odd" dimensions, like 1 and 51/64 of an inch. You can get the copper type plug in 1/8 th increments, but it won't expand enough to fit the Ford size. The rubber type will SEEM to expand enough, but it will stay in for a week or so then blow out, dumping all your coolant out in a matter of seconds!!!

So on all Fords I just do whatever it takes to pound a regular style brass plug into the block.

Here are some pictures of a Ford F-150 truck I just did. The hard part is taking the exhaust and intake manifolds off: after that the job is easy.

Apr 04, 2014 | 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

3 Answers

I have a 1998 Ford Expedition. I have been told that I have a bad coolant leak coming from rear freeze plug and that I should replace the engine. My question is, do the engine need too be replaced or do I...


If you look on the side of an engine block you will see a line of circular depressions about an inch and a half in diameter and about a quarter of an inch deep. These are actually holes in the side of the engine block which are plugged with a dish shaped metal plug called a "freeze plug" or "expansion plug". WHAT FREEZE PLUGS DO As with many things on a car, there is an "official reason" and a "REAL" reason for freeze plugs. The official reason (and the source of the name) is this: If you run just water with no antifreeze in your car's cooling system the water can freeze. When water freezes, it expands. If water freezes inside your engine block, it can expand and crack the block, destroying the motor. Freeze plugs (or expansion plugs) will "pop out" and supposedly prevent this. In reality this doesn't work all the time: I've seen MANY blocks destroyed by cracking without the freeze plugs popping out, or if they do pop out the block cracks anyway. THE REAL PURPOSE OF FREEZE PLUGS OR EXPANSION PLUGS Engines are "sand cast". A special type of sand is poured into a pair of boxes. A "die" is pressed into the sand, making an impression of the engine block to be cast. The sections of the mold are then put together and molten iron is poured in, forming the engine. This is why engines have a rough texture on most areas: this is the texture of the sand used to cast them.There have to be "cylinders" made of sand in the middle of this mold to create the cylinders of the engine block. These chunks of sand can't just "float" inside the mold: SOMETHING has to hold them in place. There are little columns of sand that connect the cylinder mold to the outer mold half. The mold for the cylinder "sits" on top of these. After the block is cast, these holes are machined smooth and a "freeze plug" or "expansion plug" is put in to plug the hole.
THE PROBLEM WITH FREEZE PLUGS OR EXPANSION PLUGS The problem with freeze plugs or expansion plugs is that they are made of very thin metal, AND THEY RUST!!! From the factory they are made of galvanized steel, and if you always run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze in your cooling system you should never have a problem. Unfortunately many people don't do this, and the freeze plugs rust through, creating a cooling system leak.When I replace freeze plugs or rebuild an engine I always use brass plugs: they only cost a tiny bit more and will not rust through. The manufacturers don't use brass plugs of course: they cost a few cents more, and they will save a penny anywhere they can: pennies add up to millions of dollars!
SIGNS OF BAD FREEZE PLUGS If you have a bad freeze plug your vehicle will leak coolant. If you have a slow cooling system leak that comes and goes, you may have a pinhole freeze plug leak. l Freeze plugs are in different places on different cars, but normally they will be down the side of the block (at least 3 of them) and in the back of the block, between the engine and the transmission. Some are fairly easy to get to, others require removing various parts off the engine, some even require removing the transmission or engine to replace! Some cylinder heads also have smaller plugs in them, often under the intake or exhaust manifold.So if you have water leaking down the side of your engine, or water leaking from the hole in the bell housing between the engine and transmission, you probably have a bad freeze plug. Sometimes the hole in the freeze plug is very small, and can periodically stop when a piece of crud from the cooling system jams in the hole.
FREEZE PLUG REPAIR If the leak is slow and small, a stop leak or block seal compound might work. I have had good luck with K&W Liquid Block Seal: it's good stuff! Of course, as with any "rig" of this sort, it might not work, might not last for long, and could clog up something else in your cooling system. The right way to fix it is to replace the freeze plug. FREEZE PLUG REPLACEMENT To remove a freeze plug, first hammer it into the block with a big screwdriver or a large punch. It won't go far into a modern engine: there isn't much room behind the plug. When it "pops through" you can easily pry it back out of the hole sideways with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the surface of the hole where the plug sits, or it could leak around the circumference of the new plug.
After the plug is removed, clean the hole in the block with sandpaper to remove the corrosion and old sealant. Once again, if you don't do this the new one might leak.Normal freeze plugs are hammered in with some sealant around them. I use aviation grade Permatex sealer.
A special tool is made to install freeze plugs: the tool is available at a good auto parts store. In a pinch you can use a large socket that just barely fits inside the rim of the plug, however this can damage the new plug if you aren't careful.
If you can't get to the freeze plug to hammer it in, you have to take off whatever parts are in the way to access the plug. Sometimes it's easier to remove the engine from the car. Another option when access is limited is an expanding replacement freeze plug. These replacement plugs are made of either copper or rubber. A nut on them expands the plug against the block when tightened. These plugs can be installed in areas too tight to hammer in a regular freeze plug. I have had bad luck with the rubber type: they blow back out quite often. I have had good results with the copper type (made by Dorman).
I have not had good results with either type on Ford products: Ford for some reason makes their freeze plugs in "odd" dimensions, like 1 and 51/64 of an inch. You can get the copper type plug in 1/8 th increments, but it won't expand enough to fit the Ford size. The rubber type will SEEM to expand enough, but it will stay in for a week or so then blow out, dumping all your coolant out in a matter of seconds!!!
So on all Fords I just do whatever it takes to pound a regular style brass plug into the block.

Here are some pictures of a Ford F-150 truck freeze plug job I did.

The hard part is taking the exhaust and intake manifolds off: after that the job is easy. CAUTION! I have one issue with this freeze plug video: He uses no sealant on the new freeze plugs, and he's not using brass freeze plugs.
I always use aviation grade permatex sealant on freeze plugs. It's available at any good auto parts store.Don't use RTV silicone: I've seen freeze plugs "pop out" with silicon seal.
Freeze plugs will work when put in "dry", but they might "weep" a small amount of coolant.
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Apr 03, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the freeze plug located


The engine in your Ford Explorer has freeze plugs, also called expansion plugs, mounted in the sides of the block. Freeze plugs are supposed to protect the engine block if the water in the engine freezes -- the expanded water is supposed to push out the freeze plug, although that doesn't always happen. Freeze plugs are made of thin steel compared to the engine block, and even with an anti-freeze mixture the plugs can rust out and require replacement.

Read more: How to Replace a Freeze Plug on a 1992 Ford Explorer ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7670495_replace-plug-1992-ford-explorer.html#ixzz2IBxfNrjb

Jan 17, 2013 | 1992 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Need to replace freeze plugs


You just drive the exixting freeze plug into the hole in the engine block. Once it has been driven all the way into the water jacket, it can be turned sideways and pulled out of the hole with a pair of pliers. Then you put a little black rtv on the edge of the new freeze plug and drive it straight into the hole until the edge of the freexe plug is flush with the surface of the engine block. This is usually done with a freeze plug driver set. SEE PICTURE BELOW

Now how to go about getting to the freeze plug is a whole other story. Each freeze plug presents problems of its own. Some of the can be accessed very easilly. Some of them require that things like starter motors or motor mounts have to be removed to get tho them. Then there are the ones that are located on the back of the engine block which usually require transmission removal to access them.

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Apr 11, 2012 | 1997 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

1997 ram 1500 5.2 l water jacket core plugs. where are they and how do u replace them


Well, if you can see water dripping from the freeze plug, I don't think I should have to tell you where it is located....You obviously already know that.

To change it, drain your cooling system the best you can. Then use a punch ot pry ber or something similar wjth a hammer to drive the plug into the engine block. Once the plug is driven in, it can be turned sideways and pulled out with a pair of pliers. Then you buy a new freeze plug and install it into the engine block to plug the hole. There are "freeze plug driver" tool kits available for performing this task. Some of the aftermarket parts suppliers will "loan" you the tools to accomplish this. Many of the freeze plugs are very difficult to access with the engine in the vehicle. MOST of them can be replaced without removing the engine, but many of them require the special driver tools to install them correctly.

Depending on WHICH freese plugs are leaking, other components like alternators, power steering pumps, motor mounts, etc. may have to be removed to gain access to them. The ones on the back of the engine block require the transmission to be removed in order to get to them. You just have to deal with each one as required.

In some cases where the cooling system is badly corroded, it is more cost-effective to just remove the engine from the vehicle and replace ALL of the freeze plugs. Again, this has to be judged on a case-by-case basis.

Jan 15, 2012 | 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab

1 Answer

Water leaking from between the engine and transmission "union"


There are two freeze plugs on the back of the block.

Jun 27, 2010 | 1983 Chevrolet Blazer

3 Answers

1991 (4 cylinder) Toyota Camry freeze plug problem


the price is determined by how much you have to remove in order to gain access to the freeze plug to replace it the freeze plugs themselves are just a couple of dollars but could be several hundred to replace due to gaining access to replace you also have freeze plugs sometimes that are on back of engine and require you to either remove engine or transmission to replace also keep in mind that normally if a freeze plug is leaking it is due to a neglected cooling system that is now full of rust that may have to be flushed out

May 03, 2010 | 1991 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Freeze Plugs


Freeze plugs are generally pried out and pounded in, although some are available that seal by squeezing a rubber piece between washers. Use 2 wrenches to tighten these. All generally available at auto parts stores.

The real problem is often getting to the leaking freeze plug. Some are on the lower sides of the block with plumbing and accessories blocking access. There are also some on the rear surface of the block, which usually require separating the transmission from the engine to replace.

Aug 30, 2008 | 1993 Buick Roadmaster

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