Question about 2003 Mitsubishi Galant ES
Not sure if vehicle is running hot or not but engine gets very hot. Gauge says it cold. Heat doesn't work because heater core is gone. I have a bypass on that to keep coolant from leaking into vehicle.
First I have seen this one..bet its cold in there too..need an electric heater for inside..
Posted on Jan 04, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Heater not dispersing hot air
There ia an actuator that controls the flap to change from hot to cold. You have to pull the bottom part of the dash and the whole blower motor housing. The part you are looking for is located just behind the radio and has an arm that goes into the heater core line. That is the piece you need. Its around $165 dollars and a dealer only part. And hope you have someone that can do it because mitsubishi charges over $500 in labor.
Posted on Sep 19, 2008
Sounds like the thermastat is stuck closed. The water in the engine would get very hot while the radiator remains cool.Don't drive the car this way as serious engine damage will occur.
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
Locate the temperature sending unit and pull the wire off of it. Turn the key to the on position (do not start) then have someone touch that wire to a ground source and the temp gauge should go from one extreme to another (cold to hot). If the gauge does that, you have a bad sending unit...if it does not move, you have a bad gauge or problem with the wiring to the gauge.
All the temp sending unit does is act like a variable resistor depending on the coolant temp...if it is bad, it will give you a false reading.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
REMOVE RAD CAP AND RUN ENGINE AT 3000RPM WITH ALL HEATERS ON SOUNDS LIKE AIR LOCK, ALSO CHECK IF HOSES ARE HOT
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
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Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...
Did your heater work before your work?
Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?
If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn
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