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"Is it possible if I bleed all four brakes they might shut off?"
If you bleed the brakes all you will do is remove any air in the brake lines and replace the brake fluid with new fluid. Do this in any event if the brake fluid is 2 yrs old or more.
This will have no affect on the ABS warning light and when the light is displayed the ABS has turned off because there is a problem with the ABS. You will not get it back on until the cause is determined and fixed which may be just a failed wheel speed sensor.
The brake warning has probably been triggered by the same failure that has caused the ABS warning light (since they came on together and bleeding the brakes should make no difference).
If the car sat for 2 months, no doubt the battery went flat. You have not mentioned anything about the battery but if your battery is in poor shape this can trigger warning lights in many cars especially the ABS (and stability control systems).
The best option is to have the vehicle scanned for fault codes that have been generated and there will be one or 2 if these warning lights are displayed. Scanning the ABS for codes will show up one or more issues and you can trace the problem from there. I think you will find the brake warning and ABS warning have been caused by the same fault.
In any event make sure you check the brake fluid level in the car and look for any external leaks of fluid that may have developed. Check the operation of your brakes to ensure they are working normally and that the brake pedal is not slowly dropping to the floor when you continue to apply pressure. Bleed the brakes if the brake fluid is 2 yrs old or more.
Very stiff pedal means brake booster isn't working. It's possible you have a master cylinder problem or just the brake booster. Battery light is separate issue,....
If you can, get the codes read from the computer and report back.
Either the piston in the slave cylinder has blown out or the rubber cup is no good. The brake fluid will be filling up the rubber boot or leaking out on to the road. Or the master cylinder has failed and the fluid is flowing past the boot down the fire wall and under the carpet. What ever it would be advisable to replace both units. At an educated guess I would say that the clutch fluid has not been changed for some and was heavily contaminated with water from the atmosphere ( brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture from the air.) The composition of the fluid becomes more water than fluid and in -40 there would have been almost ice in the clutch system. You have been given a timely warning to have the brake system flushed out and new fluid fitted there as well. The brakes are more important because with water contaminated brake fluid any prolonged heavy use of the brakes will boil the water off and the brake pedal will instantly go to the floor with no braking action at all
Are you sure the drive belt is still on the engine ? The battery light usually comes on when the alternator is not charging the battery, and the power steering is also belt driven. The brake warning light can come on when the brake fluid is low, but also when the battery light comes on.
If the power steering was ok before the brake job, I would suspect something went amiss while the mechanics were working on the car. And why, when you returned to the shop, would they clean out your power steering fluid? I don't think I've ever heard of anyone doing that before. Unless they knew there was something wrong with the power steering fluid. This may sound crazy, but I'm thinking they topped your power steering reservoir off with hydraulic brake fluid when they were working on your brakes. If, in fact, they did put brake fluid in the power steering, changing the fluid would only remove the brake fluid from the reservoir. The rack and pinion assemblywould still have the contaminant inside it, which could cause the steering problem you described.
So many lame responses...I went through this same experience and can tell you in my case it was the alternator. All of the warning lights such as the ABS light, airbag light, the warning about the brakes are all because the alternator is not providing the DC voltage all of the car's sophisticated electronics need to correctly monitor these subsystems' status. Mine left me high and dry by the side of Interstate 5 needing a tow. The low battery warning was off and on for about an hour before all of the other warning lights came on, and then about 5 minutes later every needle on the dash went to zero and the car died. After sitting waiting for the tow, it did start up again, but we got it towed to a dealer (thank god it got us within 8 miles of a dealer! the first warnings started when we were in the sticks) who diagnosed it as an alternator. $1200 and two days later and all is well again.