a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If your steering wheels turns all the way but your wheels don't:
This would have to be either a broken rack and pinion(steering gear) or the shaft between the rack and pinion and the steering wheel would have to be broken. This would need to be visually inspected to be sure which is the problem.
I would have to guess that your steering wheel is no longer connected to the rack (as opposed to something in the rack breaking). My best guess is that your steering column shaft snapped.
They can be replaced, and the necessary parts are sold, but it's not the easiest thing in the world to replace.
stick your head down under the dash on the driver's side where the brake and gas pedals are, and look up at the steering shaft (can't miss it). Now turn the steering wheel. Does that shaft turn?
so what is it? really. sure 14th gen
The New Yorker came standard with the 3.5 L EGJ which produced 214 hp (160 kW)
and guess what engine type dictates bracket types. so what engine.
from the P/S pump to the engine .
you never said what?
the pump or the rack or the searing gear box.
all have brackes.
why not just use, Chrysler tell you this, on line.
like this, ever seen this , 100 more... like it.
im a mopar guy, (love em)
USA< im USA< are YOU? and if not why not SAY.
if your going to replace the rack and pinion make sure you pull the screw completely out of the rack. there actually is a place on the round splines made to receive the screw. you should see a place rounded out for the screw to go through. if you still have problems with getting it out you can try to use two flat screw drivers to pry up on the rack where it goes down on the splines. make sure that you have your wheels straight when you put the new rack back in so that the rack will turn the wheels properly to the right and to the left the same amount of turns each way. keep your steering wheel straight so that it is in the right way that your able to see your speedometer and dash lights or gauges. make sure that your steering wheel is straight across horizontal. let me know if this helps you. god bless
You may have to be under the car to trace the line. It will run from the PS pump down behind the engine to where it connects to the rack and pinion steering gear. The rack and pinion is on a subframe piece below and behind the engine. The 2 PS lines connect on the driver's side of the rack and pinion, if like nearly all GM cars.
The pressure line can be disconnected from the pump (suction out the fluid first or it will leak all over), up at top, and then disconnect it at the rack and pinion. If this fitting on the rack is hard to reach, you may need a crows foot wrench to loosen it and remove-I'm not sure about aleros. After disconnecting it top and bottom, check for any brackets that hold the two lines together, and for a bracket that may hold the lines secure on the backside of the engine.
Before you go for a steering rack replacement with that much play, go back to your CV joints check the shafts by turn each wheel on its own and watch closly the axles as they turn , Do they turn true or do they wobble you may have a seized CV joint find which one wobbles thats where your problem lies if they do wobble, they should not. If not go to ball joints, control arms may not be secured to chassie. Or Steering rack as you say half inch play sounds too much play something not right.
I am 99.9% sure you have a steering rack leaking, this is a very common problem with this vehicle. The easy way to check is to take a small pick and poke one of the ribs of the boot / dust cover of the rack. Being that this is a dust cover there should be no fluid drip out, if fluid is present replace the steering rack.
Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se
To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.
Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
Bleed the power steering system.
Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.
there is a pinch bolt that holds it in, make sure you straighten the steering wheel first and lock it down with something so it cant move, then remove the pinch bolt and the pressure and discharge lines from the rack there are return lines within the rack that go side to side, you dont need to remove those. Make sure the replacement rack is even when putting back into steering yolk
you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.
It's a pretty big job for a novice.
here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Exhaust Connector Holder Tool
Bench Mounted Holding Fixture
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
Position drain pan under steering gear.
Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
Partially raise vehicle.
Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
Remove drain pan.
Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
Remove flex tube holder.
Partially lower vehicle.
Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
Fill and purge system.
Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .