I have a 1999 Ford Windstar LX. The driver's side rear lamp, middle of the three lights (on when headlights are on) is out. I have swapped bulbs, and the bulbs work on the other side. I've swapped sockets, to the same effect. I've gone after this with a multimeter. I get 12 V at the socket. I have read on the internet that the Windstars have Rear Electronic Modules. I've also read that the 99 LX model does not. That confuses me. If it does not have an REM, how does the bulb ever go off? I can test 12v at this socket whether the car is on or off. I deduce from this that the mechanism for toggling the light is based on manipulating the ground, which is what an REM apparently does. I am further confused, because the fuses that feed this are obviously working. As near as I can figure, if there is an REM, then the fuses are feeding the rem, which then feeds the individual components. Or so I deduce. I'm not sure how the relays work, or how they could be involved in this. Where is this REM? Is it supposed to be on '99 LX? How does this tie in to TSB 985155, "Some vehicles may exhibit various electrical concerns caused by the tire jack pinching wires to the rear electronic module (rem)." Any thoughts? Thanks! Ben
How would i be able to get a manual for my 1999 ford windstar van?
Last week, the same light issue presented itself in my 99'. Firestone swaped lights, no go. Diagnotic... REM needs replacement... $519.99 part & $98.99 labor w/$54.16 in NYS taxes. STOP... they said they would locate used REM... 5 days later they have not called... I will consult dealer tomorrow. I paid $1000.00 for the 67K 99' Windstar, everything has worked for about one year. I was happy.... but a $673.14 light ??? Is Firestone trying to bone me ???
PS The Recmd SF Contract Worksheet says '7030715 Catalytic Converter' ???
What does the Catalytic converter have to do with the lights ???
If you can convince them to use a used part, you can get one for about $80, but otherwise, yeah, $600 is in the ballpark for that part. Of course, there's a decent chance that the problem is something else. As the original poster noted, the switching on this car is done by connecting or disconnecting the ground to the light bulb. So all it takes is one short circuit anywhere between that bulb and the rear electronics module to result in that light being permanently stuck on. That's at least as likely as the REM being bad.
BTW, the REM contains three relays. If the failure is in the REM, I'd lay very good odds that it is caused by a stuck relay. Try cracking it open first and tapping on each relay with the plastic handle of a screwdriver or something and see if it starts working. If so, either call it fixed until it sticks again or go buy a new relay from Digikey or Newark electronics and have somebody solder it onto the board in place of the bad one. :-)
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