Question about Cars & Trucks
Its probably the anti theft system that is in all newer vehicles. One way to try to reprogram the anti theft is to put battery charger on battery then turn key to just before it starts the car leave it in that position for 30 minutes and then turn back off and do the same thing for 5 more minutes turn off and then try to start the car. 2. Try unlocking and locking the driver door 5 times without opening the door
Posted on Jan 03, 2014
It will need programming as the new immobiliser will not work in the CPU . Take it to a dealer service centre and they will have the equipment necessary to reprogram it all
Posted on Jan 03, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the problem is not the bcm. the passlock security sensor is in the cylinder and housing, if the cyl and or housing was replaced the system must be relearned. if you replace the bcm you still need to relearn the system or it still will not start.
Posted on Apr 09, 2009
i would recommend buying a Haynes manual, as they have very good diagrams and schematics. If you do not want to buy one, though, you can create an online garage on Autozone.com by registering (which is free) and add your car to the garage to get access to a free manual online. These manuals are kind of hit-or-miss, though, and i have had mixed results with them. But for free, it is worth looking into first.
i hope this helps,
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
It could be the tumblers in the switch, possibly a worn out key(try another key if you have one) or the steering may be in a bind, are the front tires against a curb.
While trying to turn the key try to turn the steering wheel in both directions.
Let me know what you find.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_77a19afa8d604dee
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!
Posted on May 02, 2010
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