Question about 1998 Ford Crown Victoria

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Starting when the brake pedal is applied the starter engages. if the key is on then the car starts. of course if the key is off then the engine simply spins/turns over until the brake pedal is released. even after the car is running anytime the brake is applied then the starter engages

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  • djfleissner May 21, 2009

    with the electrical part of the ignition switch disconnected it still engages

  • djfleissner May 22, 2009

    the wire harness runs up the left side kick panel and then into the left side inner fender well. found 3 grounded wires in this loom. repaired wires car is now on the road. thank you for your help

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    still look for wiring damge, do everyone a favor here, tell us what u have done in the post so we don't waste ouit time and yours, this is a free forum and that time can be spent helping others..

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    You need to drop the steering column down and look at the wiring harness to the ignition switch which is located at the base of the steering column, you will find the problem is a harness is damaged and when the brake pedal is depressed the starter wire gets energized.

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THERE IS A WIRE UNDER THE EDGE OF THE CARPET THAT IS BROKEN RIGHT AT THE BRAKE PEDAL

Posted on May 22, 2009

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1 Answer

Starter will not engage when turning the key on


does it fail to start or crank, JUMP started?
does the rested battery read 12.6v exactly or more (warm day)?

battery dead? charge it.
battery cables terms filthy. (corroded)
Not in park? got A/T or M/T? can help not knowing tranny.
not holding brake pedal down (USA? where are you, 1000s of posts and not one post says, hey im in Canada or?
try wiggling the gear shifter.
try wiggling the brake pedal (harder)
try hitting the starter, yes, this can wake it up.
the starter is bad, you can hot wire any starter to test in on car, ask.
the key line that actives the starter is dead, ask how to test that.

Aug 04, 2013 | 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara

2 Answers

Astrostart won't start the car


You may need to reset the system.

SEQUENCE ACTIVATED BY THE PARKING BRAKE .
1. While engine is running (key in ignition switch), apply the brakes and hold the pedal down.
2. Move gearshift lever to neutral.
3. Apply the parking brake Once Twice
Note: The system can be set - at time of installation - to require that the parking brake be applied once or twice.
If set for two actuations, pause one second between the two.
4. Remove key from ignition (the system keeps the engine running).
5. Exit the vehicle.
6. Within 60 seconds, close all doors.
7. The system will stop the engine and blink the parking brakes once to confirm the sequence is valid (vehicle is
ready for a remote start command).
SEQUENCE ACTIVATED BY THE REMOTE CONTROL
1. While engine is running (key in ignition switch), apply the brakes and hold the pedal down.
2. Move gearshift lever to neutral.
3. Apply parking brake.
4. Send the start command (Model 801 & 2101 - Model 903 ).
5. Remove key from ignition (the system keeps the engine running).
6. Exit the vehicle.
7. Using the remote, send the STOP command. The system will stop the engine and parking lights will blink once
to confirm that the sequence is valid (vehicle is ready for a remote start command).
http://www.astrostart.com/Support/Guides.aspx

Nov 27, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

97 Maxda Protege starter engages automaticly in park or neutral with key in ON position


You've pretty much answered your own question, although I doubt it's demons...LOL. Ign switch, nuetral safety or park switch, shorted starter, could be chaffed wiring. If your in the ON position and the starter engages, I'd be looking at the ign wire from the switch to the starter solenoid and or relay. Your car is 20 years old so anything is possible at this point. Your best bet is to go to ALLDATA>COM and buy the wiring schematics for your car grab a DVM and start checking your circuits.

Jun 09, 2017 | 1997 Mazda Protege

1 Answer

Engine won't start,just clicks 2006


assuming that your batetry voltage is above 12.4 volts,

this can be related to natural/safety switch/relay. if it is broken it only clicks but does not allow you to turn starter. you need to replace that relay/swtich. if there is a brake pedal related circuitry on your car, yo need to control that circuit too. same applies for clutch pedal for US orginated manual transmission equipped cars. without pushing clutch pedal it wont start.

another reason for this can be the stuck starter due to corrosion or mud on it. hit it with a mid size hammer gently few times.

Dec 01, 2011 | 2006 Pontiac G6

2 Answers

I drove my 1999 accord EX to work & 8 hrs. later I tried to start it and it did nothing. Tried jumping still nothing. Put new battery on and it still did nothing.What is the problem?


Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..
  1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

Jan 16, 2011 | 1999 Honda Accord

2 Answers

My tailkights are not working at all. My Park in the car is stuck and won;t come down with motor started.


turn engine off. Turn key to OFF position, (no lights on dash lit). Step on brake, pull shift lever to neutral. start car, put in drive and go. this is emergency bypass.

When the key is ON, the shift lock soneoid is engaged and won't release till the brake is applied. Since you don't have brake lights, it means the solenoid won't unlock.
check for a blown fuse or a bad brake switch on the brake pedal.

OFF is the first click clockwise from LOCK. it goes, LOCK, OFF, ON, START.

Dec 16, 2010 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

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