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remove the drum and inspect you job. small shoe on front big shoe on back.brake lube on the backing plate.lose the adjuster and inspect,lube the adjuster, give more free play on your parking brake cable 3 click is the normal before lock the wheel. Inspect the master cylinder for overfeel, remove any fluid over the max level. inspect the fluid for contamination(burn smell or oily)flush the system. lift the Jeep and pump on the brakes,if the wheel is locking open the bleeder screw.if brake fluid is under pressure,replace the hoses.
a frozen shoe actuator is the most common problem; a poorly adjusted system is the second most common cause. you say that you replaced pads; did you remove the disks? your parking brake is inside the disks and it uses shoes, not pads.
well there is a cable which rusts into the car just behind the parking brake pedal or lever. then it goes down to an adjuster which has a separate cable running from it to each back brake. the adjuster and all the cables' routing holes like to rust up with age, then the spring loaded location where the cable enters the back plate of the drum brake likes to get rusted up and freeze also. if all of those locations are moving freely then you need to pop the drum off and see what is holding the parking brake lever from moving against and opening the brake shoe. if there is no brake material left then not only do you have no parking brake, but you have little or no rear brakes to assist the front brakes in stopping the car.
Cable may be seizing in the sheath due to corrosion. Remove the drums to see if shoes move outward when someone pulls the lever. If not, remove the cables from the shoes, raise the ends, and shoot oil into the sheath. Break the cable loose inside the sheath and continue oiling until the cable moves freely in the sheath.
With the parking brake released go under the car and trace the parking brake cable s all the way the the rear brakes. If no problem is found jack the rear of the car up and remove the rear wheels. Remove the brake drums (you might have to insert a brake tool or screwdriver and loosten the adjustment in order to get the drums off. Inspect both brake systems for problems. If you drove through water on your last trip and the car was parked for several days the rear shoes sometimes get stuck to the drums because of rust. Water on the shoes can also cause the automatic adjustors to over tighten the shoes and adjusting the tension with the brake tool or screwdriver will correct it. Most of the time the adjustment slot is on the backplate at the bottom and has a small rectangular rubber plug you have to remove to make the adjustment. Some of the newer vehicles have the adjustment on the front of the drum and is a round hole which must be near the top to reach the adjustor.
Although you've released the parking brake, inside the car, are you sure the cable moved and disengaged the rear brakes ? A physical removal of the rear wheels will be required and parking brake cable and linkage operation inspected. If the cable appears to be a BINDING , a heavy dose of WD-40 will cure it. Hope this helps
Hope this helps. This is out of the factory manual. Let me know if this works for you.
NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or disconnected for service. When adjustment is necessary, perform adjustment only as described in the following procedure. This is necessary to avoid faulty park brake operation.
Fully back off cable tensioner adjusting nut at equalizer to create slack in cables.
Remove rear wheel/tire assemblies. Remove brake calipers and rotors.
Verify park brakes are in good condition and operating properly.
Verify park brake cables operate freely and are not binding, or seized.
Check park brake shoe adjustment.
Reinstall rotors and make sure rotors turn freely.