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Clean the engine well and look for source of leak, one place is oil pressure sending unit. try Marvel Mystery Oil in fuel tank to help free sticking fuel gauge sending unit. Stuck spark plug is bad if in aluminum head. Spray PB Blaster around plug several times after engine is warm and let sit. I have had cross threaded and corroded plugs take out the threads in the head have had to insert helicoil to repair it. Try removing the plugs when the engine is hot, aluminum expands when hot.
The damage might have been done already. If the spark plug was over-torqued when it was installed or replaced while the engine was hot, some of the threads from the cylinder head may have gotten sheared off and stuck to the spark plug. Options are kind of limited. With a cool engine, spray the spark plug with penetrating oil, put the spark plug socket on the plug and tap it (vibration helps the stuff penetrate sometimes), let it sit for half an hour and try removing it again. Try to use the shortest extension you have and try not to use a swivel. You wanna apply as much torque as you can to the plug without snapping off the porcelain insulator so use two hands, one to apply torque and the other to hold the tool straight. When you get it out, check the threads on the plug and the cylinder head carefully. If any metal had crumbled off, you don't want that stuff getting into the cylinder. If it does get in there, you'll have to get creative with a vacuum because that stuff will scar the cylinder wall. If you did shear off some threads, most auto parts places have thread repair kits but you gotta follow the instructions carefully because those tend to be a one-shot deal. If you mess up, you might be talking to a machine shop or junkyard soon after. Good luck.
Don't worry about it breaking up. The base is all metal, not likely to break up. What is of concern is that the spark plug threads in the cylinder head don't get messed up when removing a stuck plug.
Use some liquid wrench or penetrant around the spark plug, and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Then put socket on the plug and wrench it out. Sometimes the upper part of plug, the ceramic top, will break off, but you can still remove the base part. Buy a tube of anti-seize compound, and use it on the threads of new plugs. You will never have a stuck plug again.
The head? The steel hex is still on it? You'll just have to wrench it out. If the threads get stripped, it's just karma. You can helicoil new threads into place. If you are worried about it being too tight, or rusted, use a lot of penetrating oil before you start, and give it time to work- like a few minutes or longer. The ceramic top of the spark plug can be easily broken off. But new spark plugs are ready at hand, I presume.
Try spraying some wd-40 lubricant at the base of the spark plug and let it sit for 10 minutes or so. You may just have to force it with a breaker bar and a socket but take caution as to not strip out the cylinder head threads for the spark plug.
Besides trying to spray some WD-40 where the plug screws in, or letting the engine run some to warm it up, to try to get it out, the only other choice is to remove the head and take it to a machine shop.
If the car is decent , get a new head. That would be the correct way.but the cheap way is to get whats called a back tap.It gets installed all the way in then expands on the good threads down deep and guides it back out straight
Get an easy out from your local hardware store, but soak it with penetrating oil overnight first, worst case you can drill i out and get a spark plug repair thread insert which is available from any full service parts store like NAPA, maybe Kragen, not sure.
Spray a good penetrating oil at the base of the plug. I use PB Blaster. Slowly try working the plug loose. I like to start the engine and let run for a minute so the head gets hot and spray the lubricant and while the head is still warm, try to remove the stuck plug. By getting the head warm, it allows the aluminum to expand a little.