Question about 1998 GMC Jimmy
I've checked all the fuses and tried to trace the wiring. The one I haven't done is pulled the starter motor. I thought the starter would be ok because it has been starting. Is there any wiring that I should be checking? I don't have a wiring diagram for my vehicle so I'm just guessing here.
Sounds like the starter is going, what happens is the battery had more power to help get the starter to operate a few more times but it is already shot. The part that will go on starters is the Bendix. It's the part that pushes the drive gear out to the front of the shaft to engage it with the flywheel. It's like a spring and plunger assembly with a magnetic part that pushes a fork on the gear while the key is turned and then springs back away from the flywheel once you let up on the key. You extra power from your new battery got it to push the gear out but was bound to fail since those parts were worn out. That's why you will hear the starter wizzing up but not engaging on the flywheel or you'll hear that grinding sound. that is due to the starter already turning the drive gear before the bendix has moved the gear forward. The gear is spinning and the bendix is stuck but then comes loose and tries to kick the spinning gear out and just grinds the flywheel without ever having the chance for the teeth to align first.
bottom line is you will need a new starter.
Posted on Jan 02, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You didn't mention the fuse rating of the one you replaced so this method may not help if it was higher than ~5 amps.At this point, I would wire a 12 volt bulb, preferably, one with 40-50 watts rating (headlamp will do fine) in place of the fuse that is blowing and start pulling likely connectors until the light goes out.
If you don't get results this way, you might try disturbing one bundle of wire after another since this could be happening because of insulation that has been pinched or worn through to reach ground.
Using a bulb instead of bridging the fuse with a piece of coathanger will prevent melting the wire and possibly compounding the problem.
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
Ignition switch and neutral safety switch. Next time it happens wiggle thekeys in the ignition switch and try to restart.If it starts its probably the ignition switch. Then locate neutral safety switch on brake pedal and put meter on B+ wire from switch to starter relay and see if you get B+ on the would -be- crank. Next locate B+ wire from starter relay to starter hook a meter to it and see if you get B+ on the would -be crank.
Where ever B+ is missing is your problem.
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
Let's say that the battery and it's cables are good and charged and tight. and clean. You walk up and unlock the car and get in and close the door ( is the security light on? ) if it is can you put in the key and turn it on and does the security light go out? If it does'nt then you'll need to reset the security system. The GM way. With the doors all closed and the driver window down, reach in and turn the key to start and let go. the security light will be on steady, between 10 and 15 minutes it'll be out. Turn the key off and turn it back on and the security light will be back on, agian wait till it goes out. Again after it's out turn it off and wait a sec. and turn it back on, the light will come back on. again wait till it goes back out. this time ( the third time ) turn the key off wait a sec and then turn it to start and if everythings alright it'll start right up or crank OK and you'll have to finde another problem but the security system is'nt going to be it. If you battery is'nt good enough to do this you need a new battery anyway and your going to have all kinds of troble till you chcnge it.
Posted on Dec 21, 2010
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