Question about Cars & Trucks
4.o v6 engine, driving on the freeway and the engine just died. now it wont start.
Maybe This procedure usually works:
·Check the battery cable connections:
Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine.
·Check the battery the simple way, like this:
Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.
·Check the starter and solenoid:
If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking).
If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck.
Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear.
·Make a simple test of the alternator:
If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.
Posted on Apr 22, 2015
Run fault codes and check for cam/crank sensor. check that the cam shaft is turning( broken cam belt) check operation of the immobiliser. Check that the fuel pump is working.
Posted on Jan 03, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1993 ford ranger no spark
The first thought that comes to mind is to check the ignition system, but to correctly check you will need certian meters. ALSO because of the extreme high secondary voltage produced by the ignition system you must be very carefulwhen performing this test.
The first thing you will need is a "calibrated ignation tester", you can buy one at most auto parts stores. You can get several different types so make sure buy one that can be calibrated for the high voltage ignition system.
Disconnect any sparkplug wire and then attach the calibrated tester to the plug wire. Then you have to clip the tester to ground source on the engine, like a bolt or a metal bracket. Then have an assistant crank the engine over while you watch the tester looking for a consistent bright spark. If you get a spark that means enough voltage is present to reach the sparkplug and fire it. Now do this to the next plug and so on until you've checked them all. If you are getting spark that means you ignition coil pack is good and your problem may lay with your sparkplugs.
NOW. If you don't get spark, or it's not a consistent spark you next need to check the sparkplug wires. First you can try swapping them or better yet use an ohmmeter and check for continuity and resistance in the wire. Rule of thumb is for every foot of sparkplug wire there should be 5000 ohms of resistance.
Now if everything so far has checked out to be OK you need to check the battery voltage at the ignition coil. To do this disconnect the coils electrical connector turn your key on, but not cranking your engine, attach a regular 12 volt test light to the connector. If it doesn't light up check the fuse that protects the ignition circut. If it does light up next you can check the primary and secondary resistance of the coil pack. If all of these things check ok your problem may be what is known as a crankcase position sensor. To test this is hard to explain, but I'll try. Take a LED test light and hook the wire up to the positive + side of the battery. Next using the probe end you have to check all of the negitive terminals on the ignaition coil harness. What you are looking for is a flashing of the test light while an assistant turns the key on and cranks the engine.
If no problem is found you will probably have to take your vehicle to a qualified shop and have the PCM checked out.
I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 10, 2009
I have a 91 ranger. There are two band adjustments on the transmission that is supposed to be adjusted every 60K miles. There are two adjustments, one for overdrive and the other for everything else. The overdrive adjustment is closest to the front of the transmission and the other is back behind it closer to the shift lever on the driver side. The locking nut is a 19" and there is a tool you get for the other nut. I have found a 3/8th (I believe) 12 point socket will fit on the square. You loosen the lock nut, then you tighten the band adjustment bolt to 10 foot pounds. Then you back the bolt off 2 full turns, then hold it in place while re-tightening your lock nut. I had to adjust my bolt in 1/4 turns at a time after test driving to get the transmission to shift just right.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
first go to an auto partstore and have the code checked. most do it for free. could be coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter or even a bad gas cap. but the dianogstic test should pin point the problem.
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
For 1993 Ford Truck Ranger 4WD 3.0L MFI 6cyl the Control Module-Ignition is located under hood, center, rear engine area, mounted on distributor.
Fig. 1: View of the remote mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM)
Hope this help (remember comment and rated this).
Posted on Jul 27, 2010
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