Question about 1997 Toyota Camry

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Rear tie rod adjustment sleeve/pulls to right/1997 toyota

When driving the auto pulls to right/I had it looked at & they can't wreck the tie rod adjustment sleeve free to alighn the car

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  • Toyota Master
  • 20,706 Answers

Are they incompetent?
the dont makes excuses, they do, or order parts.
find a real ASE mech. yours, is noob.

had it looked at , is the uncle fester or what?
my guess, is cant wrench turn the tie rod adjustments do to rust.
buy a new rod, or use a torch and heat cycle it, all mech now what to do , Pen oil, then heat then buy new one.

Posted on Jan 02, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Left tie rod problem

Sounds like it may be your left CV Joint. if it is you might as well change both sides since they have the same amount of milage on them.
A total CV joint failure = Tow to the shop. Good luck and hope this helps

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: inner tie rod ends on a 2002 toyota celica

First, you do NOT have to remove the rack to replace the inner tie rod ends. Second, If you want a .pdf regarding the procedure, I'll be glad to send it to you. But, the tie rods just screw off. Whatyou WILL need to do is get a good front-end alignement after you replace the inner tie rod. If not, you will destroy your tires. Alignment is critical to minimize tire wear on Celicas.

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 Toyota Corolla - steering column crunches

the reason why your hearing this noise is because your CV joints on your car is bad. CV joints go bad when the CV boots have a rip or a tear in them and little pebbles and debree from the road get into the bearings of your axle. Dont worry its not like this big expensive ordeal. What I do suggest is dont even ask about replacing the CV joints because it usually costs the same or even more than just replacing the axles. I know it sounds horrible expencive but its not. When you take your car in tell them you want to replace your front right and left CV axles, because there are two of them in the front. Most people think you only have 1 axle in the front but you technically have two. I find the cheapest way to do it is ordering the axles online. Then finding a job with the cheapest labor rate to put them on.

Go to Select the year, make and model of the car. Then scroll down to the Driveshaft and Axle section and click on Axle Assembly and order the parts from there. I made it a little easier on you, I already looked it up for you and the price

right axle is $99.95
left axle is $99.95

Now you say you get the crunching when you turn left and right so you will need both the left and right axles. Remember that the longer you take to replace them, that crunching noise will continue to get louder and louder

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

  • 2007 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Toyota Camry V6 3.0L.....How to Connect (Route) Plug Wires

Go to this link. It should help.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: unable to pull off the housing cover to change my

I'm assuming by 'housing cover' you're referring to the drum itself...sometimes it helps to remove the rubber plug from the backing plate and maually loosen the automatic adjuster to release the tension from the shoes. I know this next suggestion may seem like a silly reminder, but I mention it only because I've done it sure the parking brake isn't engaged.

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

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1 Answer

What's a tyre rods?

I'm thinking you're referring to "tie rod". The tie rod transmits force from the steering center link or the rack gear to the steering knuckle. This will cause the wheel to turn. The outer tie rod end connects with an adjusting sleeve, which allows the length of the tie rod to be adjustable. This adjustment is used to set a vehicle's alignment angle.

Dec 23, 2012 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I want to know how to fix the alignment on my 1995 honda accord ex.

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:
  1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.

  2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
  3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
  4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
  5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
  6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
  7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications
Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

  1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
  2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.
Wheel Alignment Specifications

  • Camber - Measurement in degrees.
    • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
    • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
  • Caster - Measurement in degrees.
    • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
  • Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
    • Front: -0 (0)
    • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
  • Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
    • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
  • Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
    • Inner: 41.00
    • Outer: 33.50
Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

  • Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
  • Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
  • Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
  • Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)
hope this helps you out.

May 09, 2011 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

We just put a new tire rod on the front passenger side because we hit a pole, but the tire is still crooked outwards. is there a way that it might not be on all the way? the a frame was replaced too.

The tie rod may need to be adjusted to bring the tire back into proper alignment. There are actually three components to a tie rod system for these guys: an inner tie rod, an outer tie rod, and an adjuster sleeve that fits between the two. You can adjust the length of the tie rod via the adjusting sleeve. Provided the components are not rusted this is not a difficult task :) First loosen the two bolts at either end of the adjuster sleeve and then slowly turn the adjuster sleeve until the wheel is properly aligned. I generally use a large screw drive and just work carefully so as to not damage the sleeve itself. Once the wheel is sitting as it should re-tighten the bolts on the sleeve to make sure it doesn't walk itself out of alignment while driving. To recheck your alignment get a tape measure and check the distance between the tops, bottoms, fronts and rears of the tires. That's the easiest 'back yarder' way to get everything on the up and up.

Nov 05, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers


Genreally speaking the outter tie rod is only worn. The inner connection to the rack is more of a coupling than a rod end. You will need a 22 mm openend wrench and probally a 16mm and a 18mm opened wrench. A set of pliers to remove the old and bend the new cotterpin. Remove wheel cover and loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and place jack stand or wood blocking, (or as a minimum place the wheel you removed) under the car to prevent the car from falling on you while it's in the air. Do not rely on the jack to keep the car up. Cars are heavy. remove wheel Loosen jam nut that locks the tie rod end to the connecting rod of the steering rack, spray adjustment treads with penetetrating oil to help it spin free. You may have to lock the adjustable shaft by the placing wrench on the hex portion of the shaft just inwards of the tread. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end. Remove nut. Take hammer and drive the tie rod from the steering knuckle. To help with the alignment of the front wheel try not to move the the steering knucle brake assembly. Unscrew the tie rod , lubricate the tread and in stall the new one. adjust the treads so that the tie rod slides back into the steering knuckle without turning the knuckle. Install the tie rod nut, tighten and secure with new cotterpin. Do not tightnen the jam nut that locks the tie rod nut to the inner adjustment rod for the steering rack, instead place the wheel back on the car, lower car and finish tightnen. with the car lowered, position the car steering wheel straight. Look at right side wheel. You should be able to line the the edges of the front wheel with your eye's with the outside edge of the rear wheel. if this doesn't line up check steering wheel postion. Now after seeing what the wheel alaignment looks like on the right side, go to the left side. If you look along the outside of the left ire and you see the tread of the rear tire , you have to muckh toe out. Lenghten the adjustmne t rod by turning it clockwise. If when you look along the edge of the tire and you don't see the rear tire, turn the rod counter clockwise. Adjust slowly and always check that the steering wheel is in the straight position. Once you have it fairly close to straight, lock the jam nut on the tie rod and take to a wheel alignment company for finishing adjustment. Good luck.

Jul 14, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

How difficult to replace inner tie rod end on 06 silverado 2wd?

Not that hard, just spray the tie rod sleeve with WD40 night before and let it soak in. Remove the collier pin and and nut and hammer the old inner tie rod end out of the Track rod with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Remove the inner tie rod end from the sleeve and don't forget to mark the distance so you can place the new tie rod end at the same length. Reinstall the inner tie rod end to the Track rod and tighten the nut and replace the collier pin with a new one. Grease the fitting and go for a test drive, if the truck does not wonder then your good to go with out a alignment. Good luck and hope this helps, Note, make sure you have to right inner tie rod ends. Each side has different thread rotations.

Jun 03, 2009 | 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2WD

1 Answer

97 taurus GL inner tie rods

You have to have a special tool like this

Disconnect the outer tie rod and remove,then remove boot,then use special tool to remove inner tie rod. You will then have to have it aligned. You can use a tape measure to get it close enough to drive,just mark one of the grooves in the tire so you are measuring the exact same points,measure from tire to tire in the front of front tires then take a measurement at the rear of front tires and adjust the outer tire rods until the measurements are pretty close to equal.

Feb 17, 2009 | 1997 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

BMW e30 tierod replacment

This job is normally done in a shop however it can be done in the driveway as well but not as easily.

I assume you are replacing all four rod ends.

Before removing the tie rod assemblies, First loosen the adjusting nuts on the sleeves that lock the assembly adjustment length. Free up but do not change the adjustment of the sleeves.

The tie rods have a tapered portion that goes into the track rod and the wheel steering knuckle that need to be split apart after removing the retaining nut. This splitting can be done with a puller made for the job or something called a crows foot which is a wedge shaped fork that you hammer on to split the tie rod end taper from the track rod or knuckle. These tools can be rented. The fork is about $12

Once you have the tie rod assemblies off and on the bench, carefully measure the total length of the tie rod assemblies. Screw out the tie rod ends counting the turns and screw in the new ends the same number of turns. You will see that one of the ends is right hand thread and the other a left hand thread. Install the assemblies back on the car, first making sure the tapered area of all parts are very clean. Pull the nuts up to at least 30 foot pounds of torque ( 1 foot wrench pulled to thirty pounds force) or best to the manufacturers specification. Now measure the total length of the tie rods. and make them the same length as those you took off. If there is a difference in the lengths, split the difference in the numbers and make the lengths exactly equal. Lock up the adjusting sleeve nuts. Make sure the tie rods are locked in a position that they are free to swivel their full rotational potential. You are now finished except for alignment. Take the car immediately to an alignment shop and get at least the toe in set. This is what changes when doing this job. You must get this done or you will wipe out your front tires very quickly.

Good Luck

Feb 09, 2009 | 1994 BMW 3 Series

1 Answer

Stablizer sway bar link

Remove the front wheel. Loosen the jam nut on the tie rod using pliers and wrench with lots of Liquid Wrench or other penetration oil. Back off the jam nut and mark the position of the tie rod end on the tie rod threads with paint.
Remove the cotter pin from the ballstud and then loosen the nut. Again more Liquid Wrench may be helpful. Now place the puller (special tool from auto parts store or Sears Craftsman) over the steering knuckle and separate the tie rod end from the knuckle. Fully remove the nut and then turn the tie rod end off the tie rod.
Installation is just the reverse with the new tie rod end turned on the tie rod up to the paint mark. Tighten the jam nut up to the tie rod end. Secure the tie rod end to the steering knuckle with the nut with a torque of 35 to 46 ft-lbs and insert a new cotter pin. Don't forget to reinstall the front wheel. Checking the front end alignment is recommended. Do not get the more expensive four wheel alignment as they cannot make any adjustment to align the rear wheels. ps Buy at least the Haynes Repair Manual for your car or splurge and buy the Ford complete repair manual.

Oct 03, 2008 | 1996 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Tie rod inner or outter/how to install

here is word for word what the manual says:

1. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the side to be dismanteld. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic Ride Control (ARC), make sure the air suspention switch is turned to the OFF position before the vehicle is riased to prevent damage to the system components.

2. Remove the front wheel.

3. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud. Discard the cotter pin.

4. Disconnect the tie-rod end fron the steering spindel with a Pitman arm puller.

5. Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut and back it off several turns.

6. Apply a paint mark to the theads adjacent to the adjusting sleeve or tie-rod end. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod.

7. Install the tie-rod end into the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod. Thread the tie-rob end in until the marks made on step 6 align.

8. Install the tie-rod end to the spindle. Make sure the front wheels and steering wheel are in the stright ahead position. Make sure the tie-rod stud is seated in the taper to prevent it from turing while tightening the nut.

9. Install the new nut on the stud and tighent it to the proper torque (45-60 ft-lbs). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely.

10. Tighten the tie-rod adjusting sleever clap bolts or jam nut to 50-68 ft-lbs. Make sure the tie-rod is posistioned correctly in the same posistion it was in before it was removed.

11. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

12. get the front end aligned.

Aug 10, 2008 | 2000 Ford Explorer

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