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I have 1996 80 series with a 1HZ diesel with an aftermarket turbo kit running 7psi. EXT gauge reads 280`C at 100kph and steadily rises when loading up to climb hills on highway. Never goes higher than

Also noticed the A/C gets warm, like I only have the fan on or something so I turn it off and engine temp some what stabilises but still rises very slowly. If I turn the A/C on after about 5-10 minutes it is cold again for 30 mins or so and then gets warm again and egine temp rises up high while driving at 100kph. I have checked compression, cooling system (not losing water and no froth/bubbles)fan hub, everything. need help with this

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  • 182 Answers

This only happens while the AC is running? I would check the Freon also to make sure your compressor isn't creating a higher load than normal.

What oil are you running now that you have a turbo? I had a hot running motor (non turbo) that it replaced the radiator and fan and clutch without any changes, then went up to a higher viscosity oil (I live in AZ, USA normal summer temps are 110*)
and my problems were solved. With the turbo you may need to do down in viscosity, I had a small turbo on my Chrysler Laser and I remember it called for a super light weight oil, I never had a heat issue with that car.

Is this problem new or show up after some work was done? After the turbo or before the turbo was there a change? Does it seem to get hot while the turbo is engaged or not? Are all the heat shields still in tact and properly placed? These are some of the things I would look into in order to begin solving this. If not relative to the turbo's activity then it seems like you have done the proper steps to reduce any heat related issues. After market turbo's will generate a lot of heat and it's really important to have the heat shielding in proper placement.
280* C is extremely hot, I can't even imagine how your engine has not blown a head gasket yet! 100*C water will boil that's nearly 3 times as hot! Even 280*F is way too hot for normal conditions but not nearly as hot as what you have reported.
I would also check your sensor and make sure it's working properly, make sure the turbo isn't getting it hot and making false readings.

I would also try to get my hands on an analyzer that you can connect to the OBD-I, OBD-II or CANN to record the readings that are being reported while your driving. This way you can see exactly what each sensor is reporting and at each point of the drive you will know exactly how each is effecting the other. Mine will record just about everything you can think of and a bunch that you never knew existed. You can have it start recording when you want and stop it when your done then print the results out on your computer. Of course there will be a need to research exactly what each line of information means per car. They will all have their own abbreviations and units of measuring that are being used. Then a knowledge of what is normal for each reading is needed to evaluate the situation, they don't just spit out an answer, just records the numbers.

Since you are dealing with the turbo it will complicate the diagnosis of any problems that you may encounter with this vehicle and an analyzer may be something you might want to consider buying, but I think it's better to barrow one if possible first, trying it out may show that it's worthless or a good idea.

Posted on Jan 02, 2014

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SOURCE: overheating

CHECK THE FAN FUSE AND RELAY. IF THIS DOESNT WORK TRY CHECKING THE ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR HOPE THIS WORKS FOR YOU. GOOD LUCK

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is antifreeze dirty looking and if was changed was it chemically flushed?

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SOURCE: Temp gauge goes up and down

first i would purchase a new radiator cap 15 lbs 16 lb capacity cost about $7..then you must let car cool completely...now check radiator coolant level.. top off if it needs it. Now install new cap..let car warm up normally and after it get to normal temp range or higher put hand on upper radiator hose..it should feel hot and when you squeeze it you should feel a slight back pressure..this will mean that the thermostat and water pump are working correctly. if not either the thermostat you purchased is defective or your pump may not be working properly.
when you use just water in an engine the boiling point becomes 212 when you add the correct amount of antifreeze, depending on where you live, the boiling point will go up to 240 degrees. Make sure you put in the correct amount of mix.50/50 will usually work well. sometimes when a gauge does max out like that it could just be trapped air. if after you checked all this out and no air is trapped in the system, i would think that you may have a bad temp sensor. let me know if this helped thanks.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

gordanddar
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SOURCE: 2004 nissaan xterra v6 3.3L

Well , I know $800 is a big bill , but think of it this way , you got a bunch of new stuff on the car. The timing belt replacement alone would cost someone almost $800 to have done by a mechanic , and if it broke and destroyed your engine how much would that have cost. It's always nice to solve the problem on the first try , but at least it is fixed now , and you won't have to worry about any of that other stuff for a long time.

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bromech
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SOURCE: I noticed my engine light

Yes that is what the code means. GM usually uses two, one that makes the gauge work and one that tells the ECM what the engine temp. is. You need the one for the computer.

Posted on Jan 20, 2011

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