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How to bleed the clutch

Clutch is spongy, reservoir empty

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal stays down

Still have air in system.. Try this: Pull pedal up,fill reservoir to the top, open bleed nipple on slave cyl all the way,leave for a while to "gravity feed" keeping the reservoir full,& an eye on the nipple, until all bubbles are expelled and clean brakefluid drips out(could take a few minutes). Close the nipple, and bleed system as usual....

Posted on Jun 24, 2008

j_del
  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: The clutch on my car

Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes. You'd pump the clutch pedal several times to get the pressure up, and then open the bleeder on the slave cylinder (mounted down on the transmission). Repeat and add fluid as needed until no air comes out.

Two things - first off, some cars have more than one bleed point (the Nissan 300ZX is one of those), so be sure there is only the slave cylinder to bleed. Second, if it went right to the floor, something failed - either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder. Changing the slave is relatively easy - usually two bolts and it comes off, you put on a new one, and bleed it as described above. Often the slave cylinder is less than $30, so it's worth it to try changing it if you can't get the pedal to come back off the floor on its own. A clutch master is significantly more expensive and more difficult to change, so start cheap and easy and replace the slave cylinder if you can't pump the pedal to get pressure built up for a bleed.

Posted on Jul 23, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Clutch Bleeding

The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom...........
Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master
I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

  • 275 Answers

SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder

if you loosten the slave bleeder screw and push in the clutch pedal fluid should come out if not make sure someone holds down the pedal and tighten the screw then pump the clutch a few times and hold the pedal and open the screw if no fluid repeat a couple of times if still no fluid you need either a new master cylinder or just rebuild it( normally cheaper) and if you rebuild it make sure you flush all the lines of debris

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • 4336 Answers

SOURCE: Help,

You have to pre bleed the master cylinder or it will never work. Parts stores sell a tubing kit for this job. essentailly a hose goes from the output to the fluid reservior. Your clutch pedal sounds like it has spring assist. so you need to manually pull it back... It may be easier to pull the cylinder and bench bleed....

anyways, do not let fuid run low while bleeding the rest of the system.

Posted on Jun 28, 2010

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Jun 05, 2016 | 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara

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How to bleed clutch slave in vehicle 2004 saturn ion


Make sure reservoir is full, locate bleeder. Have someone press clutch Pedal. While clutch pedal is depressed, loosen bleeder screw and allow air to escape. Tighten bleeder(careful, they're easy to break) then repeat...Often! It helps if you have a clear tube that fits on the bleeder, run it to a small container. When you think you have removed all air from line, lower car from stands and give it a whirl. If it still seems spongy, or doesn't want to go into gear, bleed it a few more times and see how it does. Check fluid in reservoir often...they are small and don't hold a lot. They usually require regular dot3 fluid, but check lid and owners manual if not specified... it DOES matter.

Jun 02, 2014 | 2004 Saturn ION

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Clutch travel to the floor


the brake fluid has drain out of clutch master cylinder fill with brake fluid reservoir is next to the brake master cylinder. pump pedal if spongy then bleed system with a 2 ounce syringe at slave cylinder loosen screw and force fluid to the master this will push all the air out.

Apr 22, 2014 | 2002 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Brakes very spongy after clutch have been changed


Since the reservoir is the same for both clutch and brakes, definitely it can be air in the lines. Have your brakes and clutch bleed for air or you can do it. Get yourself some fluid, transparent tubing, a clear glass jar and tools to blled both systems. Find yoursef a tutorial video online to understand better, but here is how it is done: Start from the most further away wheel. Get under the car and search for the brake bleeding nipple and connect one end of your tubing. Then place the other end inside the jar, to the bottom..
Open the nipple with the appropiate wrench and have someone pump the brake pedal four or five times and check for bubles in the line and jar.
Add fluid to the car container every four or five times. Do this unitl no more bubbles are seen inside the fubbing, and close the nipple.
Proceed to the next further away wheel and do the same. Keep going unitl all four wheels are completed, Then bleed the clutches slave cylinder at last in the same way. Always keep the fluid container filled with fluid, so no air can enter tue lines.
Good luck-

Nov 13, 2013 | 2006 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

Oct 15, 2013 | 2007 Jeep Compass Limited

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Spongy clutch how to bleed clutch 2001 alero


The bleeder nipple is on the clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing. Fill the reservoir and have someone depress the clutch pedal, fit a bleeder pipe on the nipple and open the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing. Repeat this process until no more bubbles are seen in the bleeder tube. Be careful to not let the reservoir run empty or you will have to repeat the process.

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1 Answer

Sister in law driving at 65 mph on turnpike, tried to down shift. Car would not down shift. Towed to my house. Clutch fluid reservoir empty. Filled reservoir with brake fluid, started engine. Forks on...


Did you bleed the air out of the system, also if empty there a leak some where. bleed system and check for leak's, look around for wetness could be a bad slave cylinder, clutch master or the line from clutch master to slave cylinder.

May 21, 2010 | 2004 Toyota Corolla

2 Answers

Clutch has gone soft, and will not shift anymore


hi from the uk if the clutch pedal has gone soft ie spongy and you have difficulty engaging gears ? your clutch is hydraulic operated so may i suggest the 1st thing to check is the fluid in the reservoir the brake fluid reservoir also feeds the clutch master cylinder also SO if the fluid level is low /empty on one side of reservoir ? you will have a fluid leak on the clutch somewhere most probably the slave cylinder this is the one at the gearbox/clutch housing if you follow pipework ? it will lead to slave cyl and you may see fluid has leaked hope this helps ? come back e mail with your discovery and may be able to advise on putting it right ? and hopefully save you $$$$$s in repairs at garage ie diy ?

Jan 26, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

1996 Ford Ranger XLT Clutch Bleeding


The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom...........
Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master
I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics

Aug 11, 2008 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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