Question about 2006 Toyota RAV4

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Engine light on get trouble codes p.o. 300 p.o. 302 and EGR valve code

Engine running good just get the trouble codes above

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  • 305 Answers

Ok you have there a random misfire,and a misfire on #2, now there may be and open or short wire connector in the engine wire so you have to check the wires for any corrosion sometime its like a blister with some battery looking acid corrosion,then you must check your vacuum hoses for leaks also check your injectors,fuel pressure,clean your MAF with the right spray,then check your compression,i would also change the coolant temp/sensor,check your timing and get your ECM check,sometime it can be a bad coil so check them aswell

Posted on Feb 05, 2015

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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motor1258
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SOURCE: OBD code 0401 (1997 Toyota Camry 4 cyl)

There is a VSV (vacuum switching valve) , usually mounted on the back side of engine block, under the intake manifold, as well as the map sensor, that can also cause that code if one or the other is faulty. It takes some pretty detailed troubleshooting to confirm this in some cases, so if that's not in your line of work, you may have to have it properly diagnosed, or take a 50/50 shot at which one first.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

san luis
  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: 94 camry engine light on, code 71, how do i fix it

That is your Exhaust Gas Ricirculation system malfunction that you got, this part has to be replaced it costs between $130 dollars to $140 depending on the part store you go to.

Posted on May 05, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Code P0401 toyota Camry 3.0 v6

replace the vsv that has the vacuuum hose running from it to the egr valve

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

toneman2121
  • 775 Answers

SOURCE: check engine light on-code says egr valve is bad

the egr system consists of control circuits as well as the egr valve itself. troubleshooting will have to be performed in order to pinpoint the fault. the valve may just need cleaning. there may be damage in the long run since the egr system introduces exhaust gas to the air intake to reduce combustion temperatures.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/egr.htm

Posted on Apr 21, 2010

redds55
  • 2620 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 toyota camry code p0401 change egr valve

First did you reset the computer after replacing the EGR valve if you don't the computer doe'nt reconize the new sensor so it doe'nt reset the peremiters.Then check all passages and lines in the intake manifold there could be a clogg somewhere.Go to www.rockauto.com and you'll find EGR pressure sensor for under $30.00.

Posted on May 17, 2011

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I HAVE REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP AND NEW BATTERY AND MY VAN STILL WON'T STAY RUNNING WHAT IS MY PROBLEM.


FIRST CHECK FOR CODES, DO YOU HAVE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON? THE CODES WILL GIVE YOU A GOOD PLACE TO START TROUBLE SHOOTING YOUR PROBLEM

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Why does my engine stall when idling bf falcon only does it some times ?


Fuel Injectors
Use an ohm meter to check your fuel injectors (with the engine running), by removing the wire from the injector. Two metal prongs sit inside the connector. Set the meter for the ohm setting. Touch the red meter lead to one contact and the black lead to the other prong. The ohm resistance number should be the about the same for all the injectors. If any injector reading shows a higher or lower than average number, the cause will be a defective injector, which will cause a rough idle. A zero reading will indicate a shorted injector, and must be replaced. You can also use a stethoscope or a long handled screwdriver to place on the injector head. You should be able to hear a clicking sound, telling you that the injector is "pulsing." No clicking sound indicates a dead injector.
Carburetor-Equipped Vehicles
Examine the choke setting on a vehicle equipped with a choke adjusting knob or mechanism. Make sure the choke operates by opening slowly during normal engine warm-up. A choke that fails to open or sticks shut during warm engine running will cause a constant misfire and rough idle. A choke stuck in the open position will not allow an engine to warm up properly.
Trouble Codes
Hook up a portable trouble code tool for your specific Ford make and model. Look for any trouble codes that appear while the engine runs at idle. Write down any code number and look it up in a trouble-code manual. Most times, code numbers can pinpoint the exact system failure or miss in the engine.
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Where is the egr valve on a 99 Ford expedition


The EGR valve is in a very difficult spot to work on. If the EGR is bad it will set off the check engine light and make the vehicle run rough or stall at idle. It really doesn't make it run rough while driving or accelerating. What are the conditions when the car runs rough?

Mar 01, 2014 | 1999 Ford Expedition

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97 malibu with a 3100 engine - it dies if you let off the gas - so it won't idle - but runs fine as long as you are giving it gas


idle air control motor is most likely not working . sometimes you can clean them out with intake cleaner spray or you may need to replace it . also look for vacuum leaks . another possible problem is a egr valve stuck open .i would think the engine light would have come on if that was the case for the egr valve

Nov 05, 2013 | 1997 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

I have a 1998 ford escort with a check engine light on and can't get it off


Here is a list of possible causes. Some things you have already done.

EGR solenoid valve harness is open or shorted
- EGR solenoid valve circuit poor electrical connection
- EGR volume control valve stuck closed
- Faulty EGR Pressure sensor
- Faulty EGR temperature sensor and circuit
- Faulty EGR Valve
- EGR passage clogged
- Exhaust gas leaks
Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0401_ford.html#ixzz28fATCih2

Oct 07, 2012 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

P0174 p0402 p1150 p1151 and p0401


Hi there:



P0401 OBD-II Trouble Code - Insufficient EGR Flow
EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It is part of the vehicle emmissions system, and is used to reduce combustion temperature and pressure to control Oxides of Nitrogen. There are generally three parts to the EGR system: the EGR valve, an actuator solenoid, and a differential pressure sensor EGR (DPFE). These things work together to deliver the correct amount of recirculation based on engine temperature, load, etc. The P0401 code means that OBD detected an insufficient amount of EGR.


Symptoms: You may notice drivability problems such as pinging (a.k.a. pre-ignition knock) when the engine is under load or the vehicle is at higher speeds. There may also be other symptoms.


A code P0401 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:
The DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
There is a blockage in the EGR (tube), most likely carbon buildup
The EGR valve is faulty
The EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vaccuum


Possible Solutions: in fixing this code, it is quite common for people to just replace the EGR valve only to have the OBD code return. The EGR valve is not always the culprit.


Use a vacuum pump and pull the EGR valve open while monitoring engine RPM's & DPFE voltage. There should be a noticable difference in RPM's with the EGR open
Clean out the EGR valve and/or tubing to remove deposits
Check the voltage at the DPFE, compare to specified values (refer to a repair manual for your specific model)
Replace the DPFE sensor (with a good quality / OEM one)
Replace the EGR valve




P0402 OBD-II Trouble Code - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow (EGR) Excessive Detected
EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It is part of the vehicle emmissions system, and is used to reduce combustion temperature and pressure to control Oxides of Nitrogen. There are generally three parts to the EGR system: the EGR valve, an actuator solenoid, and a differential pressure sensor (DPF). These things work together to deliver the correct amount of recirculation based on engine temperature, load, etc. The P0402 code means that OBD detected an excessive amount of EGR.


Symptoms: You may notice drivability problems such as the engine may surge off idle. There may also be other symptoms.


A code P0402 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:
The DPFE (differential pressure) sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
There is a blockage in the EGR (most likely carbon buildup)
The EGR valve is faulty
The EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vaccuum


Possible Solutions: with a P0402, it is common for people to replace the EGR valve, only to have the problem return. The most likely solution is to replace the DPFE sensor.


Check the voltage at the DPFE sensor both at idle and when the EGR is open
Replace the DPFE sensor

P1150 OBD-II Trouble Code - Air/Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 2)


P1151 OBD-II Trouble Code - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
upstream is considered the oxygen sensor for the right side exhaust manifold, before the catalytic convertor. Make sure the sensor's electrical connection is in good condition. On the sensor, test between the terminals with an multimeter/ohmmeter. You should see about 6 ohms at 68*F. If not, replace.

The reason your engine is doing that is because the sensor is failing in such a way that the computer is dumping in extra fuel when it isn't really needed. Then you get the black smoke.





Hope this helps.

Jun 08, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Vw jetta code p0128


this obd2 trouble code table can help you understand the meaning of code.
and for p0128, you can try:

Verify coolant strength & level

Verify proper cooling fan operation (check if it's running more than it should). Replace if necessary.

Verify proper engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor operation, replace if necessary.

Verify proper intake air temperature (IAT) sensor operation, replace if necessary.

If the above items check out good, replace the thermostat

Aug 13, 2011 | Volkswagen Jetta Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mercury sable will not start. not battery or connection. what could it be?


Hi,

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NOTE: In order to perform a meaningful diagnosis, it is necessary to utilize either a code scanner or code reader. A test light, ohmmeter, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge and jumper wires may also be required. However, you obviously do not need any of the aforementioned items to inspect vacuum hoses, wiring, or disconnected plugs,sensors or adapters.

Before undertaking any repair or diagnostic work, be sure to inspect wiring for proper connection, burned or worn/chafed spots, and cuts.

Be sure to check hoses that are hard to see beneath the air cleaner, compressor, alternator, etc.

WARNING! I'm sometimes accused of not giving short answers. However, my philosophy is that too much is better than too little.

Still with me?

This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank. However, as stated above, today's computerized vehicles can only be accurately diagnosed with the use of a code scanner or code reader. (AutoZone will loan you one -- FREE) You need a fuel pressure gauge so as to ascertain that fuel pressure at the manifold is at least 41 psi and holding steady. (AutoZone will loan you one -- FREE). The fuel pressure regulator may also be defective or clogged, Disassemble it and check if the screen is clogged. If so, use a small pick and remove the screen. You won't interfere with proper functioning of the regulator by removing the screen.

  • My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is located under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket.
  • My third area of concern would be the ignition control module.
  • My fourth area of concern would be the heated oxygen sensor.

However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions at this preliminary stage. Only a code scanner or code reader will give you true analysis. (Remember that AutoZone will loan you one -- FREE)

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.


Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. As stated above, some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan - borrowed from AutoZone - is needed to identify any system trouble. Use this easy-to-use simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best

Ben

Jul 01, 2011 | 2004 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

1996 chevy Impala SS The cruise control quit working.The fuse is good. I need the cruise system wiring diagram.Thank you.


Hi,

Improve the FixYa.com experience for everyone by voting!

I'm sometimes accused of not giving short answers. However, my philosophy is that too much is better than too little.

Still with me?

This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.

My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is located under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions at this preliminary stage.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan - borrowed from AutoZone - is needed to identify any system trouble. Use this easy-to-use simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner www.repairpath.com

All the best

Ben

Jun 23, 2011 | Chevrolet Impala Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cranks getting fuel through gas filter but will not start is there a fuel cut off switch? or maybe fuel pressure regulator


Hi,

Improve the Fixya.com experience for everyone by voting!


This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.

My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is lactated under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

  • Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
  • Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
  • Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


The reason you should repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, e.g., if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best

Ben

Jun 18, 2011 | 1995 Pontiac Firebird

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