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before you race out and buy a clutch kit there are some checks to do first
this could be a problem clutch master cylinder where the compensating port is blocked and that keeps the pressure plate partially disengaged
so check that the clutch is properly by bleeding the nipple at the slave cylinder and seeing if that makes a difference
bleed out excessive pressure and move the lever towards the slave cylinder
press on the clutch and see if it can be moved back when the foot is off the pedal
if not it is the master cylinder
if cable read clutch cable instead of master cylinder as it is jamming up and not moving freely
First off, set the parking brake, raise vehicle so you can get under it. Remove the shift linkage from the transmission and manually move the shift lever to park. Then try moving the shift mechanism inside the car to park and then through each gear (engine off of course). See if the mechanism sticks, if so, probably a broken tab on the locking mechanism for the shift lever in the steering column. If it moves freely, try the lever on the transmission back and forth through the gear range to see if it sticks. If it sticks, or you can't initially move it by hand, you have a transmission problem that requires trained individuals to fix. If it moves freely also, try lubing the cable with silicone spray at all contact points, especially where it enters and exits any cable sheathing. (spray into sheathing well) If both move freely independent of each other, it may just have been in a bind, put both shifter and tranny lever in park and reattach the shift cable, Then try the gear range again from inside the vehicle.
It has a plastic Ratchet style gear at the pedal end of the cable that has to be released. This gear automatically adjust the clutch when the pedal is pressed. Never put a jack against a clutch arm. You will probably have to disengage the cable to reset the ratchet gear. Don't strip the teeth on the gear
LIFT THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO DISENGAGE THE ADJUSTING MECHANISM.THIS MUST BE DONE DURING CABLE INSTALLATION AS FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE SELF ADJUSTER MECHANISM.INSERT THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE DASH PANEL AND THE DASH PANEL GROMMET.( WARNING ) BESURE THE CLUTCH CABLE IS ROUTED UNDER THE BRAKE LINES AND NOT TRAPPED AT THE SPRING TOWER BY THE BRAKE LINES IF EQUIPPED WITH POWER STEERING ROUTE THE CABLE INBOARD OF THE POWER STEERING HOSE.PUSH THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE INSULATOR ON THE STOP BRACKET AND THROUGH THE RECESS BETWEEN THE PEDAL AND THE GEAR QUADRANT.LIFT THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO RELEASE THE PAWL ROTATE THE GEAR QUADRANT FORWARD AND HOOK THE CABLE INTO THE GEAR QUADRANT.INSTALL THE CLUTCH SHIELD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET.ON THE TEMPO OR TOPAZ INSTALL THE PANEL ABOVE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.USING A PIECE OF WIRE CORD OR TAPE SECURE THE PEDAL IN THE UPMOST POSITION.INSERT THE CLUTCH CABLE THROUGH THE INSULATOR AND CONNECT THE CABLE TO THE CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.REMOVE THE DEVICE USED TO TEMPORARILY SECURE THE PEDAL AGAINST ITS STOP.ADJUST THE CLUTCH BY DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH PEDAL SEVERAL TIMES.INSTALL THE AIR CLEANER.
well if it doesnt return then i'm assuming that the clutch isnt actually working on your car right? like you cant disengage the clutch correct? the only thing i've seen on these is that the cable can become disconnected right at the lever which applies the clutch. the clutch lever is right on the front side of the transmission and is easily seen with just the hood open. have somebody push the clutch down and see if the lever is moving. i can't imagine that it would be moving. if the lever does move and the clutch does not disengage then first i would attempt to adjust the clutch cable.
did this probelm just occur out of nowhere?
really the only explanation for this if the clutch lever is moving is that you have a very serious problem with the pressure plate. but i've never even heard of any probelm like this resulting from a bad pressure plate.
i would say that there about a 99% chance it's the a linkage probelm and 1% it's the pressure plate.
but yea if you answer those above questions i'd be able to give a better solution.
3 cylinder Metros use a mechanical cable not disengage the clutch, not a hydraulics so there is no 'boot' that could be bad (a "boot" is a common name for the rubber seal in a hydraulic master/slave cylinder). There is an electric safety switch under the dashboard, at the top of the clutch pedal which prevents the engine from turning over unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It is likely faulty or adjusted incorrectly.