Question about 1984 Chevrolet S-10
Its an 86 2.8 2wd three weeks ago i was running it first thing in the morn. it was doing fine for about 5 min then it shut down, check engine light came on.. since then traced it to, bad fuel lines-replaced new map sensor- new idle controll module, new egr valve- removed and cleaned all air and fuel cavities inside the carb. new fuel pump and filters, tank included. and last but not least all vacum lines replaced still gets stuck at about2000rpm when warmed up. and i have to floor the gas to get it started, when warmed up. runs rough and spits black and blue for short period then clears up if i rev it up high anyone can even give me a good lead, You rock! thanks
With the age of the vehical it might be a good idea to do a compression test first. I would check the timing. Sounds like the engine is advancing for some reason, if that checks out then recheck for vacuum leaks( it could be leaking past the base gasket, vacuum booster, or intake), The vehicle has a carb. not a throttle body injection? Also if you can retrieve that engine code it may be helpful.
Posted on May 21, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Dec 30, 2012 | Ford Explorer Sport Cars & Trucks
Engine stalls or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
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