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sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
I had the same problem when i was working on my 1999 Buick Regal and had to disconnect the battery. I didn't reconnect in the same way that I disconnected the battery from the terminal and noticed that the driver side had no heat or air but the passenger side did. I then disconnected the battery again and reconnected it the same way and now have heat and air on both the driver and passenger side. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
Two things can be the problem,first,try adding ,a little freon,if it is low,it will only cool one side,then if this does not help,there is a door actuator motor that controls this,it could be not working,the dash has to come out to replace this actuator motor,if this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.
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The most common cause of this is that you have a stuck air temperature control blend door, this can be a motor actuator issue or a jammed door or both (common). To replace both parts you will need to completely remove the dash from the car to access the blend door.
This fault could be control module related. The Dealer will have the computer to rectify this issue. Have a quick look under the dash on the passenger side, can you see the hot/cold rotor moving as you increase/decrease the heat temp? If it is moving the air direction flap may have become detached.
Hope this helps...
The air is mixed and routed inside the dash by some flaps. In your case the flap that regulates the mixing of hot and cold air for the passenger side is broken or stuck in the cold position.
The only way to fix that is to remove the dash , access the air system and fix the flap.
Just had this happen today to my 2007 silverado heat on the right side cold air on the left side. After engine was off 15 minutes and restarted heat was on both sides. I'm guessing a relay failed to open door to allow the heat to flow thus blowing cold air.will monitor diligently for a while.
you cant adjust it ,this requires the dealers computer to re set it,or a phyiscal control has packed up like a vacumn pipe has split where it pushes onto the valve that controls the flap in the heater unit.