Question about 1994 Toyota Camry
Engine starts and runs about 45 seconds then stalls
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My experience in this makes me think that you have a rusted fuel line, at the top of the tank. This is a common problem. I remove the tanks and replace the fuel tank fuel line/bracket assembly quite a bit.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
SOURCE: fuel pump relay
if it is starting that is normal if not take off your distrubitor cap and check for spark if no spark check the wire going to the coil pack for spark, if very little or no spark replace your dist. cap rotor and coil pack.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
SOURCE: toyota echo 2001 Mnl
Ok, before I give you a suggestion, I want to let you know that I'm not an expert on cars or anyhting, but I have been focred to fix A LOT of problems with my vehicles over the years to save money, and this is a situation I ran into twice. Once on a 1994 Buick Skylark Coupe, and another time on a 1992 Chevy Corsica. What I learned is that if you hook jumper cables up to your car and it starts, there is USUALLY one of two things wrong with it. Either you have a dead battery (which you don't because it's new), or you have a bad alternator. Because the car stays running after it's jumped, everything points to a bad battery or battery connection. Have you tried replacing the connectors on your battery cables? I know it sounds like a shot in the dark, but I've tried that before out of desperation and it has worked. I'm pretty sure your alternator is ok, or your car would die when the red positive jumper cable was removed, so I'd replace the connectors on the battery calbes in your car, especially if you have never replaced them before. If that doesn't work, if it was me, I'd take it in and have it looked at. Like I said, I'm not an expert by far, so I can only trouble-shoot to a point. Hope this helps, or at least gives you something to try.
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
SOURCE: I have 1997 Toyota T100
If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crankshaft position (CKP) sensor.
A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.
ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump.
On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.
On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.
There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem.
On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.
Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.
ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression . If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).
Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change.
With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked.
A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.
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Posted on Sep 02, 2010
SOURCE: 94 4Runner 6cyl. 3.0 4x4
If the fuel pump operates with with a jumper at data link.That clears that the fuel pump is running.So check the EFI relay and the fuel pump relay. Now what is EFI relay:--- EFI Main Relay The EFI fuse supplies constant battery voltage to EFI main relay. The EFI main relay provides battery voltage to +B terminal of circuit opening relay (some models) and data link connector. Depending on model, EFI main relay may either be turned on directly by ignition switch or by M-REL terminal of Engine Control Module (ECM). The EFI main relay may also provide battery voltage to +B and +B1 terminals of ECM when ignition is turned on. The EFI main relay is located in engine compartment relay box. NOTE: Circuit opening relay is used on all models. Circuit Opening Relay Circuit opening relay controls fuel pump circuit. The Engine Control Module (ECM) receives an input signal at STA terminal when engine is cranking. Starter signal is also applied to STA terminal of circuit opening relay. Starter signal energizes circuit opening relay during cranking. Circuit opening relay then provides voltage to fuel pump or fuel pump relay.The circuit opening relay is grounded by ECM through FC terminal.Fuel Pump Relay & Fuel Pump Resistor .Fuel pump relay receives voltage from circuit opening relay and operates fuel pump. Fuel pump operating speed may be varied by Engine Control Module (ECM). When ECM grounds fuel pump relay, relay contacts close, and voltage is supplied through fuel pump resistor, to fuel pump. This changes fuel pump operating speed. ---------------------- As there are many other possibilities to check out of the mentioned procedure.But as you said fuel pump works with jumper wire and the fuel pump relay is replaced,on as per that i think the problem is the Fuel pump relay connections.The relay ground wire is connected to the ECM.If this wire is not connected properly or if this ground wire is got short or in-case not connected,then the ECM will not send signal to fuel pump relay to get started so it will not let the fuel pump start.But in jumper wire connection the relay is bypassed so no ground connection required and due to that fuel pump works. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation
Posted on Sep 05, 2010
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