Question about 1997 Geo Tracker 2 Door
If it is in 4 low it will lug also in 4 high if excessive u-joints could be dry and binding or just needs to be ran in 4 wheel for a few miles to lube everything up bearings gears front axle etc... be sure transfer case is full and differentials are full also you need to have same size tires all the way around.
Posted on Jan 02, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check you gearbox has enough oil in it, also if its a cable adjust the cable, if its fluid try bleeding the clutch
what symptoms did you have before replacing the clutch?
if you had problems selecting gears the problem may be in the box itself. with more info i can try to assist you further
Posted on Jun 16, 2008
You need to take the cover off your hub and clean and grease the lock ring. It is attached to the spring. It sounds as though your hub is rusted open.
Posted on Mar 09, 2009
SOURCE: 4 auto
but a seal puller is $5 and one can use a ice pick and punch a hole into the seal . then screw in a wood screws in the hole and pull it out.
just careful removal , no hurry.
the real problem is never put the seal back on unless you cover and protect the crank lip, this lip has a 100% seal destruction record.
suz stopped selling their $2 protecter so i use electricans tape.
no when you put the crank cog back on , be sure to use
a new factory bolt , they streatch , and set the torque 17mm bolt to 94 lbs/ft ( new TSB spec)
its all here on my page
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
i1m sorry to say that wheel bearings are not set to a torque specification, when you have repacked the bearings [ inner and outer ] ,reassembled it ,take the nut up until thewheel starts to drag and not turn very far when you try to spin it spin it backward and forward several times,grab the top of the wheel and try to push it in and out,if you getany movement at all tighten the nut a couple of castilations. do it all over again, spinthe wheel a few times and then try for the crossways movement again, if there is no movement ,you are very close to being right....................now comes the experience bit , iwould take it one more castilation of the nut because i know the feel that is need ed,,without that i suggest you put the pin in where you ereput the cap on and go for a 5 minute drive . whenyou get back ,jack it up and thespinning of the wheel again and try for the top crossways movement ,if there is any tighten thenut 2 castilations, and provided that when you try to spin the wheel by hand with a reasonably strong push the wheel should trael about 6 inches at least after your hand leaves it ,it is now a close as you are going to get itput it all to gether and for the next day or so put yor hand on the grease cap after you have driven anydistance, and you will feel it is warm but you should be able tohold your hand on the grease cap. there you have it ,any questions come back."youdoit"
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
first you remove the wheel then the break caliper then remove the locking hubs just remember to lay out the parts in order a special tool is called for but this job can be done without it you have to use a small cold chisel and a hammer to tap the large nut counter clockwise to remove, you can then remove the outer bearing and the rotor and hub assembly look on the back side reomve the bearing seal and inner bearing be sure to pack your new bearings with grease before you reassemble . takes less than an hour.
Posted on May 05, 2010
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