I just replaced the slave cylinder, clutch with resurfaced fly wheel, clutch hose, and master cylinder. When i try to bleed the clutch it builds pressure and the hose either pops off or leaks. I was wondering if it had anything to do with the clip at the end of the clutch hose that is inserted into the slave cylinder? Any suggestions?
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Yes all 92-95 civics have a hydraulic clutch system. it starts at the pedal. Pedal pulls a plunger in the clutch master cylinder which is found bolted through the firewall under the hood on the drivers side. The master cylinders resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower and connected to the master cylinder with a rubber hose. A line from the master cylinder runs along the firewall tirades the passenger side wheel then turns to the front of the car and is connected with a fitting to a rubber hose. The rubber hose runs to your clutch slave cylinder. The slave pushes the clutch arm.
Your clutch pedal is staying on the floor because there is no back pressure to push it back up. You have air in your clutch system. First find out why (find leak or just top up clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if no leaks) then bleed your clutch. If your clutch line is rusted there is a coupler mid way in the line on the firewall. Will save you from removing the whole line maby. And there is no need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder.
My guess is your slave cylinder is leaking. It right on the front of the transmission. Pull back the rubber boot over the end of the slave cyl. and check for fluid leaks. The bleed screw is on top of the slave cyl. Find/fix leak, fill resivoir, pump clutch 10 times then HOLD. Open bleeder screw, watch for fluid and air sputtering out or just air. CLOSE valve, release clutch. REPEAT until clutch works keeping resivoir topped up. You may also open bleeder screw and pump clutch to get fluid into the system before you do the bleed process. Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint and is not very nice on your skin or in your eyes so be carefull with it.
There may also be an off chance your pedal sticks because the clutch itself is badly broken but it's not really very likely.
it could be either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder,it could also be the clutch pressure plate check the master & slave cylinders first because if it's the pressure plate the gear box will have to be removed to replace the pressure plate, even if you are uncertain it is most likely cheaper to replace the master & slave cylinders than it would be to replace the pressure plate.....hope this helps......cheers.
Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.
Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
The brake system and the clutch master cylinder have the same fluid tank, look at the brake master cylinder fluid tank, on the right hand side about half way up is a hose that goes over to the clutch master cylinder, if fluid level is not above this hose the clutch will stop functioning. If the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the front side of transmission bellhousing, leaks then the clutch will stop functioning. The slave cylinder has a bleed screw, check these items and fill and bleed as neccessary. Hope this helps, let me know.
The trans will need to come out. While your at it, just replace the clutch assembly, rear main oil seal, resurface the flywheel, and the clutch master cyl. Its not really a job you should do, find a repair shop to handle it.