Question about 1997 Ford Taurus

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My a/c won't blow cold and heater doesnt get hot

My a/c won't blow cold in my taurus

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  • toytriplett May 20, 2009

    thank you both i will check the A/C electronic blend door actuator but im not sure where its located

  • Anonymous Mar 28, 2014

    turn signal doesn't work.

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  • Ford Master
  • 4,369 Answers

I would cehck to see if the blend door moves back and forth when you adjust the teperature from hot to cold. It could be stuck in the middle where some heat formthe heater core is mixing with the cold from the a/c evaporator.
Does your selector switch work ok to choose where the air comes out? Blower speeds all work?
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The climate control assembly has three control knobs (18519):

  • The air flow control or function selector knob, attached to the A/C-heater function selector switch, controls vacuum and electrical applications.
  • The temperature control knob, attached to the potentiometer, controls the position of the A/C electronic blend door actuator mounted on the A/C evaporator housing.
  • The blower motor control knob, attached to the A/C electronic blend door actuator, provides four speeds of blower motor operation.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Temperature Control
The temperature control operates in the following manner:
  • Temperature control of the manual A/C-heater system is determined by the position of the temperature control knob (between COOL and WARM).
  • This control knob is connected to a potentiometer mounted in the integrated control panel. This potentiometer is electrically connected to the A/C electronic blend door actuator that operates the A/C air temperature control door.
  • The A/C electronic blend door actuator contains a reversible electric motor, another potentiometer and a printed circuit board. The wiper of the potentiometer is connected to the actuator output shaft and moves with the output shaft to indicate the position of the A/C air temperature control door.
  • Battery voltage is applied to the ends of each potentiometer. The voltage available at each wiper indicates the position of the potentiometer. The printed circuit board drives the actuator in whichever direction is necessary to make the actuator wiper voltage agree with the control wiper voltage.
System uses a reheat method to provide conditioned air to passenger compartment.
  • All airflow from the blower motor (18527) passes through the A/C evaporator housing where it can be cooled and dehumidified.
  • Temperature is then regulated by reheating a portion of the cooled dry air and blending it with the remaining cool air to the desired temperature.
  • Temperature blending is varied by the A/C air temperature control door which regulates the amount of cooled air that flows through and around the heater core (18476), where it is mixed and distributed

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • gerry bissi May 20, 2009

    remove the instrument panel cover on the passenger side footwell.

    if you have console, pull out the console cover on the passenger side, front of console.

    you should be able to see the rectangular blend door motor and see or hear the shaft rotate when you move the temp knob.



  • Gunter Frank Hilberer Oct 15, 2011

    Instead of using a blend door on my motorhome, the manufacturer decided to use a motorized valve which opens and closes in much the same manner as the blend door. I believe it uses the same motor drive mechanism as the blend door. Unfortunately, since the manufacturer decided to use a two way valve instead of a three way valve, temperature control is difficult to maintain. From everything that I have read, the recommendation is to replace the motorized two way valve with a motorized three way valve, which will bypass heater coolant back to the engine when space temperature is satisfied. The problem is, I have not been able to find such a valve on the internet. Has anyone out there ever seen such a valve, and or know where I can purchase one?

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  • Expert
  • 57 Answers

Is the heater working? Turn the A.C. off with the car at an idle. Turn the A.C. on and listen for the compressor to turn on. (should hear a click under the hood and the motor should change pitch. If no noise, the compressor is not comming on. The o-rings were bad about leaking on these cars, letting out all the freeon. If there is no freeon, the low pressure switch won't let the compressor run.

Posted on May 20, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

vmhreha
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: air condition/heater

sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

  1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
  1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

  2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
  • the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
  • the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
  • the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
  • the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
  • the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
  1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
  2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
  3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
  4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
  5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

  • 784 Answers

SOURCE: heater blows cold

If no coolant flowing through the heater core then ther is no heat. There are 2 possible root causes needed to check out: 1- THE VALVE TO CONTROL THE COOLANT FLOWING TO THE HEATER CORE IS NOT OPENING AS DESIRED. 2- THE HEATER CORE GOT CLOGGED UP AND NEED TO BE FLUSHED.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

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