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Peugeot 807 Exhaust particulate filter is clear elois fluid half full, very sloe acceleration till about 3000 rpm when turbo boost cuts in and then it speeds up but not when in 4th gear or going up hill. Engine tends to die going up hill regardless of dropping down gears to increase rpm, turbo boost hardly occurs up hill. New turbo boost solenoid valve fitted, maf sensor renewed, no fault codes show up on diagnostic tool. Normal road diesel makes it worse, top of the range diesel produces a slight improvement. Did redex, no change. Egr system all ok as are emissions.

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  • alfie434 Jan 01, 2014

    Title is slow acceleration

  • Mercedes netter
    Mercedes netter Jan 01, 2014

    The a/c unit & heat does not work!!!!!!!!!every thing else runs great

  • alfie434 Jan 01, 2014

    Hi all systems are ok.

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  • 52 Answers

Have you checked the PCV system?? If its stuck in the closed position then you will lack power and turbo boost. A vehicle needs 3 things to make it run proper; FUEL,FIRE and AIR. Try that and see if it helps.

Posted on Jan 01, 2014

  • alfie434 Jan 14, 2014

    It turned out the turbo was on its way out and has been for ages as it blew out last night.

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SOURCE: 2001 Peugeot HDI fuel starvation .

does it get worse as it runs? this would indicate exhaust problem. could be mass air flow

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Posted on Nov 12, 2008

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SOURCE: P1401 still after replacing EGR pressure and EGR valve

Yes that is what is wrong the intake manifold is plugged with carbon restricting EGR flow you need to clean out the ports to correct the problem if you run the car to long you will burn the DPFE ( the EGR pressure sensor ) out agian

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

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SOURCE: fault code p0245 puegoet 406 turbo fault

My book shows that P0245 is the super/turbo charger solenoid "A" voltage is low.

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Danniboi
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SOURCE: Peugeot 306 d-turbo rev jumps accelerating

Hi

It could be a number of things, I would check the EGR valve first as that is quite common on the HDI EGR "exhaust gas recycler" reuses any unburnt fuel in the exahust gas and forces it through the engine to keep your emmissions down and improve economy. often these get mucky so you can remove them and spray them with carb cleaner! do not use anything else to clean them.

To check also any air pipes that have splits. tears, rips etc have a feel around the underside of each air pipe as again this can ause that fault.

Lastly check the air mass sensor going into the air box, I cannot reacll where it is on that model but they are very obvious once your looking at it. normally a wire going into the main air intake of the car, unplug or unscrew it and again clean with carb cleaner and refit.

try these before you pay anyone, lastly it could be an injector leak sucking in air, you can test this if you can get to the injectors, poor a little water around each one and see if they blow out any water or bubble up and **** the water in, this can be a cheap fix but the labour invloved may be expensiove, in all honesty buy a haynes book as its pretty simple just takes a while.

Hope this helps, if you are unsure what I mean then get back to me and I will explain.

Regards
Dan

Posted on Jul 21, 2010

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1 Answer

My saab 95 1.9 tid revs fine in neutral when put in drive and pull of there's no power won't go above 3000 ram any ideas


HI Derek.

There are a few possibilities that come to mind.
3K RPM is generally about the break-even point for when Turbo boost would kick in. There is a dump valve on the turbo system that opens up and vents the extra turbo pressure under high-rpm situations where the boost isn't needed - say high but steady speed on a freeway. If the dump valve system is malfunctioning, then that anticipated turbo run-up in power won't happen.

Revving fine when in neutral may not tell you much, other than that the engine can rev. The gating system will (or should) run differently under load - whether climbing a hill or accelerating, this is where you want the turbo boost to give you the extra power. THat's where the exhaust gate should stay shut, or mostly shut, to allow the turbo to force more air into the pistons.

You might want to check whether the APC (Automatic Performance Control) for the turbo has a separate fuse. (The name might be different on your model, I'm remembering from my 80s/90s era Saabs). If the fuse is blown, that could also lead to lame performance, especially as I'd imagine that the system would be built to fail or go to full open if the APC fails or loses power - that'd keep people from having run-away power that they can't manage.

Hoping this helps

D

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When driving my 1997 Audi A 4 1.8t there is a loss of power around 3000 rpm, what could be causing the issue?


run the fault codes and look for a problem area in the vane actuator of the turbo
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I've got a Peugeot 407 HDi 2005 now with a power loss, particularly obvious in low rev range, blowing black smoke - looking like excessive fuel input. Also, it is using a huge amount of fuel.


Is it a diesel. If so it could be the particulate filter blocked, or it could be a failed fuel pump or something internal of the pump, or if a petrol it could be a failed catalytic converter, undo the exhaust and see if that changes, if so then look closely at your exhaust.

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Where is the anti pollution filter on a citreon c8? we replaced diesel filter and it keeps saying to unblock filter, and anti pollution keeps coming up


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1 Answer

Turbo problems


had this before its something to do with the computer not allowing the vacumn through via a solonoid valve so i conected it direct with a little T to the output side of the vac pump ,worked a treat after that ,then realised i should have just joined the pipes together by passing the valve but i had been on a good night out the night before ....

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Turbo keeps cutting out, mainly on incline or declines, could this be fuel filters.


Could be one of many things. First off if you can"t remember the last time you changed the fuel filter (there's only one, and it's in plain sight) then do it. It should be replaced every 20k miles. If i were to guess though I would start to look at the turbo actuator system. The turbo is engaged by vaccuum. there's a vac pod on top of the turbo with a vc line going to it. At idle, when you don't want boost there is no vaccuum sent to the actuator pod. The pod is connected to vanes in the turbo that direct the exhaust flow either into or around the blades. Under full throttle vaccuum is sent to the pod to move the vanes inside the turbo to direct exhaust into the blades causing it to spool up and give the car some zip. I have replaced quite a few of the pods. Here"s some more to think about...

Vac is generated by a vac pump off the back of the camshaft. Check to see if there is at least 15" of vac.

VW doesn't provide a port to measure boost. Anywhere. In my opinion all turbo cars should have a boost gauge. Either install one- it's not hard, or get someone with a VAG.com type scanner and see what the boost is. Stock I think was a lazy 13psi under acceleration

Use a vac pump, hook it to the line going to the vac pod on turbo and make sure it HOLDS vac.

other poss. causes- vac leak somewhere else, check all lines

turbo crusted up inside

something else weird.

When you find the problem please let me know. Im curious...

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