Cv boot leaking grease

get a boot replacement kit remove axle from suspension and trans. clean old grease out of failed axle, stuff new grease into cv joint and put new boot on shaft close to joint. fill the boot with the rest of the tube of cv grease and install per instructions.

• Boots only need replaced when they have been negated and are leaking grease. However, the time effort and money to replace just one boot when the other is right there might bite you if the other boot needs replaced in the near future. However, if upon inspection the boot is not torn, worn and the knuckle still performs well you do not need to replace that boot.

• Hope this helps.
  

A CV boot will generally not cause a wobble. If the boot is not cracked open there is plenty of grease inside. If the boot was leaking grease you would see it slung all over the back side of the knuckle, brake caliper, and inside of the wheel.

If the steering wheel is moving back and forth at slow speeds the first thing I would check for is a separated tire or a bent wheel. If you feel the tread of the tire it should feel smooth all the way around. If there is a high spot or bump it is separated.

The easiest thing to do is have the tires balanced. Tell them you are getting a wobble in the steering wheel. They will inspect the front tires closely and if they find an issue have them show you what they found.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

If it is leaking grease out of the cv joint, you will have to replace the rubber cv boot or eventually, the entire cv axle, if it gets worn because of lost grease and no lubrication.

there is no such thing as transmission oil but if its atf fuild red in color replace carrier seal (but more likey its a torn cv boot and your seeing the grease ) in this case remove and imspect cv joint repack bearings and install new cv boot

Hi mate

With the driveshaft removed from the vehicle.

Undo the the retaining straps on the CV boot.

Pull the CV boot up the driveshaft a little way, enough so you can clean all the old grease away.

Now look into the CV joint an locate the circlip that locks the CV to the driveshaft.

Now put the driveshaft into a vice with the CV joint facing downwards.

Now open the circlip and at the same time strike the CV joint. You can do this with a ballpin hammer if you are scrapping the CV joint. You can get a helper to stike the CV joint with a hammer while you keep the circlip open.

This will release the CV joint form the drive shaft.

Now clean the driveshaft of any old grease and fit a new CV boot if needed.

Now reverse the driveshift in the vice and fit the new CV joint. It will tap on with no trouble but do not damage it. Test it is on by trying to pull it off with your hands.

Now fill it with new grease.

Fit the CV boot to the CV joint and secure it to the CV joint.

Now it is ready to refit to your vehicle.

I trust this solves the problem for you.

Ray

hello,Maybe I can shed some light on this situation.Some of,and I`ll say most of the cars and trucks now days ,do not have them.The axles need not to be greased,they have a cv boot around each knuckle(cv joint)that is full of a certain kind of grease.Unlees the cv boots crack or break open to exposure ,they will be just fine.If ican assist you anymore,please fill free to email me direct,[email protected]

Did one today, assuming drive shaft removed take off large clip from inner boot slide back joint socket comes away leaving the knuckle joint on the shaft remove 19mm circlip and tap knuckle off spline this allows outer boot to come back - easy enough. Not much tubber to secure new clip over boot though especially with all the grease.

First, did you check the price difference on a complete axle (saves time and aggravation of doing joint & boot) Most times you can get them apart by just putting the axle in a vise and giving the joint a good smack with a hammer. There is a small clip in the end that you can spread, but you have to look carefully to find it. Most people have a hard time getting the boot to stay on and find it has come off a few weeks after they installed it.
That's why I suggest replacing the entire axle which if far cheaper than they used to be!!!

I would recommend that you replace the complete axles instead of just the boots. The boots may be busted/worn and when the get torn/busted they allow sand/dirt inside the CV joint and the bearing inside the CV joint become worn, it all depends on how long the boot has been ripped, its easier and a lot less messy to R/I new axle. For the wheel bearings they need to be pressed in by a hydraulic press. As far as the procedure goes you have to elevate the two front wheels and secure by a lift of jack stands, then take off tires and take off brakes/caliper and caliper chair along with the rotors. You have to remove center nut on axles and remove lower ball joint from knuckle assemble/ hub. Then remove bolts holding knuckle/hub to the struts. Pull knuckle from axles and the hub is out. If you don't have a press and the proper tool you can take the two hubs and the bearings to a machine shop and they will press out and pressing new bearing for you. As for the axles they both can then be pulled/pryed out of the transmission at this time and be fixed or replaced. caution look out for leaking transmission fluid when you pull axles out. The axles are only held by licking rings and can be easily pulled or pryed out. Have something ready to catch fluid. Replace axles in the reverse of taking out. use a piece of wood on the end of axle if there is need to tap it back in with a hammer, listen for a click or snap when its goes back in to transmission. Good Luck