Question about Cars & Trucks
I recently had CAA try to jump start my car. He wasn't able to jump it and said it was likely the alternator and needed to be towed. As I was waiting I asked someone else to have a look at it and upon closer inspection we noticed that the wire going to the negative connection to the battery was frayed and as soon as he picked it up to see how bad it was, it came apart. He was able to put the wires back together and wrapped it with electrical tape(which temporarily fixed my problem however on my way home the service light and lock system light came on. After having the wire fixed by a mechanic, my service light still comes on when I drive it, the temperature gauge goes down to 40 when i'm driving and the light comes on, but it goes away. My gas gauge and speedometer also go down to 0 every now and then randomly. Ive noticed it only tends to happen now when I have the heat on or my lights. I've been told my system needs to be reset, and i've tried taking the battery out for an hour and it did not work. I also tried removing the battery and the ECM fuse for about a half hour and still no fix. The car is running fine and all these problems didn't start happening until we jumped the car. Any other ideas as to how this can be fixed(preferably without taking it to a mechanic)would be GREATLY appreciated. P.s. I'm pretty sure that both of those "solutions" that I attempted did not actually reset anything except my clock as my radio presets are still there. - Thanks for reading! ~Molly
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The same problem happend to a customer of mine. I replaced all fan relays to fix the problem. (there are three) also as for the gauge it was the instument cluster itself that was faulty. My answer to you is make sure they replaced all the relays.
Posted on Mar 02, 2010
Hopes this help, found answer on Saturnalia
If your mechanic has a schematic or looks in the owners manual and checks the loads listed for the IP BAT fuse in the UHJB and they are all dead then its the F-5 connection. The fuel pump is a direct feed from the IP BAT to F-5 to the fuel pump relay. the fuel pump fuse is on the other side of the fuel pump relay.
It covers exactly what I am trying to tell you. Check the IP BAT loads, if all dead, fix F-5 and if the internal wire is burned open replace the I/P panel.
File in Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 03-08-45-001
Issue Date: May, 2003
Intermittent No Start, Intermittent Stall after Start-Up and/or Loss of Radio Presets (Replace Instrument Panel Junction Block - IPJB and/or Terminal)
1995-1999 Saturn S-Series Vehicles
Some customers may comment that one or more of the following conditions has occurred.
^ Intermittent no start
^ Intermittent stall after start-up
^ Loss of radio presets
Condition(s) may be caused by terminal tightness at PIN F-5 within the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB Black 68 way).
Refer to the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) and/or Terminal Replacement procedures in this bulletin.
Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) Removal:
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect positive battery cable.
3. Remove left and right lower trim panel extensions by pulling outward at dual lock locations. Rotate panels outward to disengage hinges from console.
4. Remove screw and ground wire from H-bracket.
5. Remove wiring harness from H-bracket.
6. Remove screw and disconnect rear electrical connector from IPJB. Remove IPJB screw.
7. Using a small screwdriver, release lock tabs on IPJB and slide off of mounting tabs.
8. Feed IPJB through H-bracket towards front of car.
9. Inspect PIN F-5, circuit 402 on the Black 68-way connector of the instrument panel junction block for signs of arcing. If signs of arcing are present, replace IPJB and terminal. Refer to the IPJB Installation and Terminal Replacement procedures in this bulletin.
10. If no signs of arcing, verify terminal tightness using GRAY probe. Replace terminal using the Terminal Replacement procedure in this bulletin.
1. Feed IPJB back through H-bracket.
2. Slide the IPJB into mounting tabs and lock into place.
3. Install rear Black 68-way electrical connector into IPJB and then install screws in connector into IPJB.
4. Reconnect wiring harness to the H-bracket.
5. Reconnect ground wire to the H-bracket.
6. Reinstall left and right lower trim panel extensions.
7. Reconnect positive battery cable.
8. Reconnect negative battery cable.
1. If terminal replacement is required, remove CPA from Black 68-way connector. Insert tool 12094430/J04898 to remove terminal.
2. Put connector seal (if equipped) on wire.
3. Remove insulation from the end of the cut lead and the harness. Recommended strip length is 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) Caution must be used to prevent cutting the wire strands.
4. Position stripped ends in sleeve until wires hit the stop in the center of the splice.
5. Hand crimp using the approved crimping tool. Gently tug on wires to make sure they are secure before applying heat to them.
Important O NOT USE MATCH OR OPEN FLAME TO APPLY HEAT TO SEAL.
6. Apply heat using the Heat Gun or some other device, heating to 175°C (347°F) until glue flows around edges of sleeve.
7. Insert the terminal into the connector. Check to make sure the terminal lock tab is engaged by gently tugging on the wire.
8. Replace any terminal position assurance (TPA) devices.
COMPLEMENTS OF: OldNucSuper Member
Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Far Southwestern Iowa Posts: 17,413
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
The main relay is bad. This is located on the driver side above the fuse panel. What happens is the temerature warms up and the soldier seperates. You can either replace this or re-soldier it. The part number is RZ-0088, you can get a new one on ebay. You will need a 10mm socket to get it out, it is behind the cruise control module.
Posted on May 12, 2011
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