Question about 1996 Ford Explorer

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Battery doesn't charge replaced everything and light is still on

The battery light is on all time and is there something else that can drain the battery i replaced alternator and battery but it seems not to be charging it

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  • Richard Scordino May 11, 2010

    Have you put a volt meter on it and checked to see if it's charging? have you checked the alt wires to make sure you put them all back on? have you checked those wires for continuity?



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Is the altenator functioning right if you take of one terminal if its started the engine musnt die if it die it is the alten

Posted on May 20, 2009


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Check for any lites left on somewhere, interior--under the hood, whereever. Best time to check is in the dark. Sometimes a faulty generator can cause the battery to drain. Then, I pull /replace fuses, one at a time. When you pull the fuse on the problem circuit the excess drain goes away. Then you check everything on that fuse circuit.

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Is the battery not holding a charge or is it being drained by something staying on? If not holding a charge then replace.....if something draining the battery look at interior lights or trunk/boot light!

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You need to check amp draw, with everything off, usually not even a tenth of an amp. If too much draw, pull/replace fuses one at a time, When you pull the fuse on the faulty circuit the excess drain goes away. Then you check everything on that circuit.

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Honda 2004 CRV seems like it has charging problem. Replaced battery and and Alternator. Fine for 2 months, now having problems starting. Something is draining that battery when it sits in garage. ...

I doubt the actuator, but not positive. I think it would be buzzing or clicking if it were drawing current.
So new battery and alternator. Assuming no problems in the charging system, you may be right about the drain. Here's how to check for the so-called parasitic draw, or unintended drain: Having just gotten home or having run the engine a good time to assure the battery is fully charged (about 30 minutes at least), shut off the car and open the hood. If there is an under hood light, take out the bulb. Now let the car sit for a good half hour, key out of ignition, everything off, to make sure the engine computer has gone to sleep, and all systems are shut down.

Take off the negative battery terminal and hook up a test light or voltmeter between the negative cable end and the negative battery post. If there is a drain, the test light should be bright, or voltmeter will register voltage. There is always a very small electrical draw on the battery from the keep alive memory for clock, radio pre-sets, computer memory, and the security system. But this should only be milliamps (less usually than 100 milliamps-not enough to drain a battery for a long time, less amperage than a glove box light bulb would draw). The test light should not be lit, or if affected by this milliamp draw, would have a very, very dim bulb glow.

If the tester lights up bright, there is an unintended drain. To find it, start pulling fuses one at a time, watching the test light. When a fuse is pulled and the test light goes out, you have found the problem circuit. Check a wiring diagram to see what all is on that circuit to find the problem.
Now if you did not find a drain, then have the charging system checked. Good luck, hope you find it.

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Battery goes dead while car is sitting

It wouldn't be the starter. It will not draw current when not engaged. Could be a light left on, a trunk light, glove box light, under hood light-an unintended drain, somewhere. Sometimes a penny or something gets stuck in cigar lighter and keeps that circuit on.
You should check if alternator is fully charging up the battery after it has run, and then turned off. But if you don't have a voltmeter handy, try this: When you shut if off to sit overnight, take the negative battery terminal off the battery. When you get ready to start it, hook up the battery and see if battery is no longer weak. If battery is now good, you do have an unintended drain. If battery is weak again, check charging system, battery cables and connections, alternator connections-a loose connection will prevent battery from charging.
If you have a drain, turn everything off and remove key. Pull the bulb out for the underhood light. Take negative off battery again, and hook up a testlight between the negative battery cable terminal and the negative battery post. If something is pulling current, the testlight should be bright. Now at fuse panel under dash, pull fuses one at a time and watch the testlight. If you pull a fuse and the testlight goes off, that circuit has the unintended drain. Check everything on that circuit.
Hope you find the problem. Good luck.

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The battery was replaced in April 2011. I have had vehicle for 7 years and only put about 5k miles a year on car. I have never had any issues with starting the car until I replaced the battery. I have had...

A parasitic drain is basically caused by something being left on, but there is a simple way to find out. Once you have had your battery charged an/or have driven for at least 20 mins, you can condust the following diagnostic:
Making sure all interior lights are off, attach a voltmeter to the battery to monitor the voltage.
Locate the fuse panel.
Remove a fuse. Observe the voltage on voltmeter. If it doesn't change significantly, replace fuse and proceed to next fuse until all fuses are tested. Once you find a fuse that changes the volts by at least 2 volts, you have located the circuit creating the drain. Consult your owner's manual to see what accessories that fuse powers, then you can see if the component is stuck on, left on, or is defective. Good luck.

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How do i check starter voltage on 1995 7.3 Ford F250? The batteries are less than a year old. They are being drained frequently. Today truck will not crank. Starter checked out by mech.

Sounds like you have something else draining battery. Possibilities include the alternator. For starter cranking voltage place the positive lead of voltmeter on positive of battery and the negative on the other. Disable fuel, then crank for 15 seconds and read volts while cranking. This is your cranking voltage. For voltage drop on cables, place positive on battery positive and negative at battery cable on starter. Crank 15 seconds. This should be less than .5 volts. The same can be done with any cable or wire in the starting or charging circuit of a vehicle. Just place the positive on positive or negative on negative, with the other lead at the opposite end of the cable being tested. In charging diagnostics, you will get the charging system operating with the engine running while you do the readings. I suggest though, that you do a parasitic drain check. If you disconnect the positive cable of the battery and place a test light in series (one end to battery, the other to the cable), you should have a very dim light to no light. If the light is bright, you have a drain. Proceed by making sure everything is off and there are no dome or hood lights on. Start removing fuses one at a time until the light goes out or gets very dim. Replace each one after you check it to avoid having a pile of fuses to put back. Also disconnect the alternator wiring to eliminate this possibility. A fried regulator may feed voltage to the fields all night if it's shorted. This will drain both batteries in relatively short time.

Sep 20, 2009 | 1995 Ford F250

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