SAAB 900 1997 Clutch cable problem
Was having to floor clutch pedal VERY hard to change gear. Fitted new cable. Gear change has now become very stiff, works when engine is cold but becomes increasingly stiffer and difficult as engine warms up - to the point where I can't engage reverse when engine running. Switch off engine and it will engage. Any ideas ?
Had a recent similar problem. Fortunately, my replacement cable is adjustable. As the new cable stretched, I had to take a crowbar to the the throwout lever next to the battery and lever it back while pulling off the cable (towards the battery). I then lifted the fuse box (look out for the 10mm plastic nut that holds it in on the side by the driver's side fender) on the drivers side right in front of the windshield to reach down and pull the cable up enough to reach the adjustor. When it is high enough, release the locknut and turn the adjusting nut upwards about 4 turns (both nuts on my cable were 17mm and a "stubby" is handy but not necessary. Grab the end by the battery and, making sure it is seated on the groove on the transmission, pry the lever again with the crowbar and reseat tg
he cable end in the lever. I have had to readjust the cable twice more before it settled in a comfortableplace, but once you get the hang of it, it only takes about 10 minutes.
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You didn't say how long ago the clutch and flywheel was fitted.
If it was recent the car should be returned to the repair shop for some free-of-charge rectication.
If the clutch is cable operated it might need adjusting or if the adjustment is automatic, perhaps it is broken.
If the clutch is hyraulically operated perhaps all the air wasn't bled from it leaving it with a spongy pedal feel and insufficient travel.
Perhaps there is too many carpets under the clutch pedal. It is not unusual to have to press the pedal right to the floor with a brand new clutch.
If the gear lever selects all the gears easily with the engine off, but not when the engine is started, the problem is likely to be the clutch.
If the pedal feel is normal and there is maximum travel being delivered to the visible clutch mechanism the problem is likely to be inside, requiring the removal of the transmission.
Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely. Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.
Car picks up speed if you accelerate slowly, but the engine races, with minimal speed increase of the vehicle, when the throttle pedal is pushed harder?
I'm not aware of the typical layout of the Saab, so while these things below are what I would suggest you look at... Not all will apply.
Note that if the clutch plate is worn or otherwise slipping, the more you race the engine, the sooner will you burn off any remaining clutch life. Take things easy 'till you have a solution.....
On any vehicle, this is a classic sign of a worn, damaged, or out of adjustment clutch.
Possibly oil contamination from a leaking crankshaft rear oil seal. It causes a glaze on the linings of the driven plate and loses friction.
The clutch pedal is not returning to it's normal rest position when released. Check for objects trapped between the pedal and the vehicle surfaces.
The cable (if used)may be binding, thus the clutch doesn't fully return.
It may be out of adjustment. Check for adjusting points at the cable ends. If no slack exists in the cable, it appears as though the clutch is worn.
The clutch may be self adjusting. It's possible for self adjusters to seize.
The hydraulic system (if used),has sticking cylinders. You may be able to clean and reuse the cylinders....
you need to bleed the clutch system.. have someone pump the clutch pedal three or four times, hold it down and release the bleeder valve( make sure the person holds the pedal down till after you tighten the bleeder valve back down) repeat this four or five times or till the clutch pedal feels like it did before.. good luck keith...
Unfortunately, this model uses a clutch cable. The internal shaft (in the bell housing) eventually suffers from galling and crud accumulation. This puts enormous strain on the cable which may even break. The cable is self-adjusting but occasionally may need a little manual help. If you undo the nut (far lower right side of the box in American cars) and the clips holding the fuse box to the firewall you can lift it aside and see the cable where it exits the firewall. Grasp the large spring that surrounds the sheath and gently tug upwards. You should hear a click or two or three as the adjusting ratcheting mechanism operates. If you do not, tug a little more forcefully, but do not **** the cable as you can cause the ratcheting mechanism to fail. You will now have less free play of the clutch pedal and easier operation of the clutch. Order a new cable now and carry it in your trunk. You will be needing it soon.