PUT ON NEW WATER PUMP AND THERMOSTAT.NOT THE PROBLEM.MY MECHANIC SAYS IT MAY BE TIMING CHAIN COVER,OR INTAKE MANIFOLD.COULD THIS BE TRUE.COULD I DRIVE A SHORT DISTANCE TO ANOTHER MECHANIC WITHOUT DAMAGING VEHICLE,A LONG AS THERE IS WATER IN THE RADIATOR.TEMP ON TRUCK BARELY REACHES 220.WAS TOLD TO USE BARS LEAK.PLEASE GIVE ADVICE.IF IT IS INTAKE MANIFOLD COVER,OR TIMING CHAIN COVER WHAT KIND OF MONEY AM I LOOKING AT TO FIX THIS.
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Re: OVERHEATING DODGE RAM 1500
Which engine? Are you looking for a leak or does the engine just get hot? It's been my experience that unless you have the timing too advanced (not probable on computerized engines), or there is a spun bearing (which would make noise), then an overheating problem is most likely (after the thermostat) the radiator being plugged up. It could have been partially defective to start with (no, 'flushing' doesn't usually help). Bars leak will only make the problem worse.
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Re: OVERHEATING DODGE RAM 1500
Definitely take this truck to a certified mechanic who can diagnose the problem,run from who ever is giving this advise.if the truck only reaches 220 then drive to another shop. pressure testing the cooling system should locate the problem. if you need more help get back to me and we'll go from there please rate my fix as i strive to be the best
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REPLACE WATER PUMP ON A 1999 OLDSMOBILE ALERO. FIRST YOU HAVE TO DRAIN COOLANT SYSTEM IN A LARGE DRAIN. RADIATOR DRAIN PLUG SHOULD BE ON THE BOTTOM ON PASSENGER SIDE. THEN RAISE THE VECHICLE SUPPORT VECHICLE WITH JACKSTANDS. REMOVE THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FROM THE ENGINE. CAUTION DO NOT ROTATE THE FLEX COUPLING ON THE FRONT EXHAUST PIPE MORE THAN 4 DEGREE OR DAMAGE TO THE FLEX COUPLING MAY OCCUR. REMOVE THE THERMOSTAT AND THE COOLANT INLET PIPE FROM THE WATER PUMP HOUSING AND SEPARATE THE ASSEMBLY FROM THE ENGINE. LOWER THE VECHICLE REMOVE THE BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM HOSE FROM THE CAMSHAFT HOUSING. REMOVE THE FRONT TIMING CHAIN COVER AND THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER FROM THE ENGINE. CAUTION THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER MUST BE REMOVED TO UNLOAD CHAIN TENSION BEFORE REMOVING THE WATER PUMP FROM THE HOUSING OTHERWISE THE WATER PUMP WILL BECOME JAMMED IN THE TIMING CHAIN HOUSING. REMOVE THE HEATER OUTLET PIPE FROM THE WATER PUMP COVER. REMOVE THE WATER PUMP COVER BOLTS FROM THE ENGINE BLOCK AND THE WATER PUMP. REMOVE WATER PUMP RETAINING NUTS AND SEPARATE THE WATER PUMP FROM THE TIMING CHAIN HOUSING. CLEAN THE SEALING SURFACES OF ALL GASKET MATERIAL ON THE WATER PUMP, WATER PUMP COVER AND THE TIMING CHAIN HOUSING. WIPE THE MATING SURFACES WITH A RAG SATURATED LACQUER THINNER OR ACETONE. YOU CAN BUY THESE CHEMICAL AT LOWES OR WALMART DEPARTMENT WHERE THEY SELL PAINTS. FIRST INSTALL THE WATER PUMP COVER AND GASKET TO THE WATER PUMP ON THE BENCH BUT LEAVE THE BOLTS FINGER TIGHT. APPLY A THIN LAYER OF RTV SEALANT TO BOTH SIDES OF THE NEW GASKET AND INSTALL THE GASKET ON THE WATER PUMP. WAIT FOR RTV SEALANT SET UP DRY FIRST. POSITION WATER PUMP AND WATER PUMP COVER ASSEMBLY INTO TIMING CHAIN HOUSING ENGAGING THE WATER PUMP SPROCKET IN THE TIMING CHAIN, AND INSTALL THE NUTS FINGER TIGHT. USE CAUTION TO ENSURE THAT THE GASKET DOESNT SLIP OUT OF POSITION. LEAVE THE NUTS LOOSE TO ALLOW REPOSITIONING WHEN THE BLOCK BOLTS ARE INSTALLED IN THE NEXT STEP. INSTALL THE WATER PUMP COVER TO ENGINE BLOCK BOLTS AND TIGHTEN THEM BY HAND. LUBRICATE THE O - RING ON THE HEATER OUTLET PIPE WITH COOLANT AND INSTALL IT INTO THE WATER PUMP COVER. HAND TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. NOW THAT THE ENTIRE WATER PUMP HOUSING ASSEMBLY IS INSTALLED AND IS FITTED AGAINST THE ENGINE BLOCK. TIGHTEN BOLTS CRISS CROSS SEQUENCE TO INSURE PROPER SEAL TORQUE WATER PUMP TO TIMING CHAIN HOUSING NUTS TO 19 FT LBS .NOW TORQUE WATER PUMP COVER TO WATER PUMP HOUSING BOLTS TO 124 INCH POUNDS. TORQUE WATER PUMP COVER TO ENGINE BLOCK BOLTS 19 FT LBS. TORQUE 124 INCH POUNDS THE RADIATOR OUTLET PIPE TO WATER PUMP HOUSING. INSTALL THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER AND COVER. INSTALL THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. INSTALL THE EXHAUST PIPE TO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. WHEN ALL IS DONE. START POURING COOLANT IN THE RADIATOR OR COOLANT OVER FLOW JUG.CHECK FOR LEAKS. IF IS GOOD KEEP ADDING COOLANT TO RADIATOR OR OVER FLOW RESERVOIR UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING. NOW START ENGINE. WATCH THE COOLANT LEVEL WHEN START DROPPING ADD MORE COOLANT IN RADIATOR OR OVERFLOW JUG. WHEN COOLANT STOP DROPPING INSTALL RADIATOR CAP OR OVERFLOW JUG CAP. LET ENGINE IDLE UNTIL THERMOSTAT OPENS WATCH TEMPERATURE GAUGE WHEN TEMPERATURE GAUGE RISING TO OVERHEATING. TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT A WHILE TAKE A LARGE RAG SLOWLY OPEN RADIATOR CAP A LITTLE TO RELEASE PRESSURE. WHEN PRESSURE RELEASE REMOVE RADIATOR CAP ADD MORE COOLANT. START ENGINE LET IDLE WATCH TEMP GAUGE. TEMP GAUGE START RISING AGAIN TURN OFF ENGINE LET IT SET A WHILE ADD MORE COOLANT. TO RADIATOR. WHEN ENGINE TEMPERATURE GAUGE STOP RISING AND THERMOSTAT OPENS YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM AIR IS BLED OUT. JUST LET VECHICLE SET A LITTLE CHECK COOLANT LEVEL MAKE ITS CORRECT BEFORE START DRIVING VECHICLE. IF YOU TAKE VECHICLE FOR TEST SPIN TAKE LARGE RAG AND PLENTY COOLANT WITH YOU.IF ENGINE START OVERHEATING WHILE DRIVING PULL OFF ROAD SAFELY WAIT 20 TO 30 MINUTES. USE LARGE RAG SLOWLY OPEN CAP A LITTLE RELEASE PRESSURE. THEN REMOVE RADIATOR CAP ADD MORE COOLANT IF NEEDED. HOPE THIS HELP.
That is in the general area of the water pump and the housing has a drain hole at the lowest point so when the seals fail, water can't contaminate other items.
Rebuilt pumps are nearly always reliable since they really don't have much to fail in them besides bearings and rubber seals and are much less expensive than new.
3.7L/4.7L:LOCATED IN LOWER HOUSING ATTACHED TO TIMING COVER..WHERE LOWER RAD HOSE GOES TO ENGINE..PLASTIC HOUSING WITH 2 BOLTS.
5.7L:IN WATER PUMP UPPER HOUSING WHERE METAL HOUSING ATTACHES FROM UPPER RAD HOSE..MAKE SURE ON ALL ENGINES YOU REMOVE BLEED PLUG WHEN REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM TO GET RID OF AIR TO PREVENT ENGINE OVERHEATING
first you have to take off the exhaust manifold. then take off the top motor mount and lift plate on the passenger side on top. then take off the 25 little bolts and nuts off the timing chain cover. with the cover off, take out the bolts on the timing chain tensioner (towards botton, by the crank, looks like a little rod in a aluminum housing). now take off the curved tensioner shoe and the chain will loosen. take the chain off. now the fun part is getting the bolts off the back of the water pump to the block. then the bolts connecting the water pump to the steel housing. and finally the three nuts connecting the pump to the chain housing. not hard just frustrating. replace the pump and new gaskets (comes with pump) and bolt back everthing back together. you may want to change your thermostat while your there since its right by the pump. now putting the timing chain back on and having it in time isnt the hardest thing but if your a first timer take your time. go to a mechanic and ask to print out intalation insructions on timing chain installation. then bolt it all back together.
there will be a bolt in the center of the pulley and it will need to be removed and you will need a puller to remov the pulley. the pulley needs to come off evenly or it will bind, this i why you need thepuller, you should be able to get a cheap one for about $ 25.00 . when you go to get one tell them at the store what you need the puller for so you get the correct one. this puller is also good for removing steering wheels.
How ever the timing chain cover seal should not have water coming out of it. it sounds more like a head gasket or a frost plug.