Question about Cars & Trucks

Open Question

1986 bmw 325 ilde tofast - Cars & Trucks

Posted by Anonymous on

4 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: 1986 BMW 325 ingition switch

check the wires within the column and starter relay. also for the wires connected to the starter

Posted on Dec 01, 2009

  • 1874 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I need a 1986 BMW 325 fuse box diagram with

The fuse box diagram for 1986 BMW 325i

F1 (7,5A) - LH high beam headlamp
F2 (7,5A) - RH high beam headlamp
F3 (15A) - Fan blower motor
F4 (15A) - Turn signals
F5 (30A) - Windscreen wipers, washers
F6 (7,5A) - Brake lamps. interior lights
F7 (15A) - Horn
F8 (30A) - Heated rear window
F9 (15A) - Engine Control Module, automatic transmission shifter position indicator
F10 (7,5A) - Instrument panel, reverse lamps
F11 (7,5A) - Fuel pump
F12 (7,5A) - Radio
F13 (7,5A) - LH low beam headlamp
F14 (7,5A) - RH low beam headlamp
F15 (7,5A) - Rear fog lamps
F16 (15A) - Heated seats
F17 (30A) - Electric windows, electric sunroof
F18 (30A) - Fan blower motor
F19 (7,5A) - Interior mirror, heated mirrors
F20 (30A) - A/C blower motor
F21 (7,5A) - Interior lamps, glove box lamp, trunk lamp
F22 (7,5A) - Rear LH tail lamp
F23 (7,5A) - Rear LH tail lamp
F24 (15A) - Hazard warning lamps
F25 (30A) -
F26 (30A) -
F27 (30A) - Central locking system
F28 (30A) - Cigarette lighter
F29 (7,5A) - LH fog lamp
F30 (7,5A) - RH fog lamp

R1 - Fan blower motor relay
R2 - Horn relay
R3 - High beam hadlamps relay
R4 - Low beam hadlamps relay
R5 - Heated seats relay
R6 - Fan blower motor relay
R7 - A/C blower motor, heated mirrors relay
R8 - Fog lamps relay
R9 - Rear fog lamp relay
R10 - Windscreen wipers, washers relay

Posted on Feb 12, 2011

  • 501 Answers


It is a pain you will want to move somewhere that gets little rain or buy a new car by the time you complete this repair so don't say I didn't warn you. Remove the left (driver's) side wiper arm and blade assembly.
Remove left grill assy. located under the wiper arm. This is done by gently inserting a thin putty knife under the top edge of the grill in several places to release the hold down tabs.
Pull the rubber weather strip (hood seal) up that goes around the fender and cowl area. Remove the large plate on the firewall to reveal the wiper motor access area, there's a wiring loom on the right side and a round electrical connection (multi pin) on the left that will have to come away before the firewall plate can be removed, the plate is held on with four 7mm sheet metal screws.
First to come off is the wiring plug from the wiring harness (that's the lower part of the square connector that goes through the wiper frame assy.(this pulls down with a wiggling back and forth), once the lower plug is pulled out the top square plug from the motor can be wiggled out, pry one edge up and work from there.
Sidebar...from here on you will have to work generally up-side down and totally blind so if you're not in a calm state of mind you might want to save this up-coming part of the job for a better time. The trick to this job is getting the wiper motor out without its plastic cover and getting the new one back in with its cover which is impossible unless you know the trick, and yes, I will give you the trick later on in this monologue... .
Take the center motor (armature) link arm nut off (10mm), making note on its position (the arm) in relation to the frame/motor assy., I take this arm off and try not to disturb its position and lay the linkage arm assy. down in the well, out of the way. If you do have to move it or loose its position, no big deal, we will discuss this later on.. TIP; if you take a flat punch and tap the linkage arms side it will fall right off without fuss, just a few small taps with a small hammer and punch will do it (the splined shaft is tapered).
Remove the three 10 mm bolts that hold the motor on to the frame, I start with the hardest to get at first and finish up with the easiest (it just works out easier), now the motor is loose in its mounting and this is where the "Trick" comes in, so listen carefully. The goal is to take the plastic cover off the motor while its sitting inside the well, this is done by tilting the assy. (motor and cover together) and sneaking it back further into the well area, if your in the right position the motors (armature) splined shaft will be pointing to the rear of the wells bulkhead (to the rear of the car) and at this point keeping the cover against the forward bulkhead of the well you can move the motors body away and separate the two, leaving the cover right there out of the way (very important), you can now slide the motor (on its own) past the frame and out of the bulkhead cover hole into the engine bay and out.
The new motor (I strongly advise a new one cause you don't want to do this repair twice) can be moved into place and when its in position the cover can be put on to the motor (just reverse the removal procedure), when the cover is on the motor jockey them both back into place on the frame, it's a tight fit but it will go (it came out, right?). The first hold-down bolt should be the easiest to get to and this just takes some eyeballing to get it started and once you have the first started the other two are easy, snug all three down tight.
At this point I plug the electrical connection together outside of the frame hole (where it will eventually go) and activate the motor from the switch so the motor parks in its right place (I do this a few times just to make sure), disconnect the electrical plug and lay the wiring aside out of the way, now comes the time for the linkage arm to-be connected to the motors shaft, if you have not moved the linkage you should be able to mount it up. If the motor is parked and the wiper arm/blade (the passenger side) is in its right place all should be well (I say, should be), my way is to tighten the linkage arm up snug but I will not bring it totally home, then I'll try turning the wipers on (from the switch) and see if it works right, when the wipers are shut off, the blade should park in the down position and not be on the up stroke. Another words they should not jump at the bottom end of their cycle (when they are shut off) but should stop in their lower position calmly and without fuss.
A quick note here, I take a small tie-wrap and go around the center of the two electrical block connections when they are put back into the frame hole just to keep them together, the little detents tend to wear and make for a loose fit causing the blocks to separate (cheap insurance).
Replace the grill and the wiper arm/blade assy. and make sure the blades have clearance of movement, I like to set the blades up, off the bottom of the windshield a tiny bit (I think it looks cool) when their parked. Clean the gutter (fenders and cowl) and replace the firewall cover and the weatherstrip, TIP; the lower cover screws can be taped into a socket for easy starting, replace the wiring loom channel and round connector. Good luck and have fun

Posted on Feb 23, 2011

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:


Problems with right side gauges not working in a 1986 bmw 325.

if your rpm gauge temp gauge and your odometer stop working in your 1986 bmw 325 check the sid batteries located inside the instrument cluster. chances are those are blown up. checked mine today and they were covered in battery acid. i replaced them with new ones and everything works now. tip they need to be rechargeable batteries. The altenator recharges them as the car is on.

on Nov 29, 2010 | BMW 325 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am looking at this car it is 1986 chevy caprice it say it only

I would buy it off of you tommorow for twice that amount,jump on the offer!

Jan 23, 2010 | 2003 BMW 325

1 Answer

1986 BMW 325 ingition switch turns on but won't go no further stop's dead

check the wires within the column and starter relay. also for the wires connected to the starter

Nov 30, 2009 | BMW 325 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Throttle problem

sounds like your MAF sensor needs servicing

Jun 19, 2009 | 1986 BMW 3 Series

1 Answer


You can't use a tool to pull codes from an '87 BMW 325(e). You have the 2.7 liter and your DME, or computer is a Motronic. If you had a 325i, then a tool could read the codes because the computer was upgraded that year to a Motronic 1.1 system with a round plug in under the screw cap on the driver's side under the hood. The only tool you can buy is the one for resetting the service interval light and resetting the oil change light. To answer your question about going about finding your driveability problem would be to get a BMW Bentley Manual. This manual shows you how to use a standard voltmeter to check everything from your computer plug in. Your computer is located above the glovebox.

Good Luck,


Jun 05, 2009 | 1986 BMW 3 Series

1 Answer

I have a 2001 BMW 325 sedan. When I turn the

some things in the BMW's pop apart but with a little force I would call BMW of chattanogga and ask for the head mechnic is really helpful his name is everit

Mar 04, 2009 | 2001 BMW 325

1 Answer

Replacing cooling fan clutch????


Yes you need to replace what is called the Fan Viscous Coupling Unit.

Then swap over the fan blades.

Quite straightforward.

Good luck !


Jan 19, 2009 | 2001 BMW 325

1 Answer

86 325 BMW - Want a new stereo with CD player - but not aftermark

if it was me i,d replace the original head unit with an alpine they came standard in most early bmw,s and maybe and an ipod to the aux input of the stereo.

the speakers are 5,25 inches and there behind the flimsy front kickpanels you can either just swap them for something more powerful i,l recomend genesis or rainbow for a big difference in sound especially if there a mid and tweeter combination that your buying , if not just a good coaxial set will do but stay away from the kenwoods they lack in midbass !

Nov 18, 2008 | 1986 BMW 3 Series

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

24 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts


Level 3 Expert

75822 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Randy Ohler

Level 3 Expert

14585 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides