Question about 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1990 GMC Sierra 4x4 1500
the connections near the front axle that activate the motor to engage the system aren't melted? That's a comon problem for that body style. If there good, sounds like it could be that motor itself. To figure out if it's you motor or transfercase, jack up the rear end, have a friend inside shift into 4 wheel drive, or try to, and put it in gear and apply some gas. If the front driveshaft is turning then it's something with the front end. If not, farther back in the system.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
SOURCE: how to replace the front
THis would be way too much to walk you thru. If you like to do your own maintenance-buy a chilton manual online or at your local auto parts. It will save you time and $
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
Diff does not need to be removed to change axle. If you are good at this stuff, you can figure your way through it, or get a manual as a guide (haynes etc. are OK for this stuff) Axle is held into carrier by a "c" clip so you do need to remove the cover and spider gears to get it out (not difficult) If you run into a problem, someone here will surely help!
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
Take the front axle actuator out of the axle. Plug it back in and have some one push the 4x4 button. The actuator should move, it's a liniar motor. If it doesn't then the actuator is bad or there is a wiring problem. If it does there is a problem in your front diff or some where else in the system.
I'd take a guess and say it's the front actuator.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
You have to remove the wheel and the brake caliper. If it has antilock brakes disconnect the antilock break sensor wire up by the frame and get the wire free form the holders. Remove the big nut on the end of the axel shaft with a 1-3/8 inch socket, now turn the steering all the way to the left and losen the two bolts behind the hub with good 18MM socket. They are usually very tight be carefull not to round the head of the bolts use a good quality 6 point socket. Turn the bolts out about 6-8 turns and stop now turn the steering all the way to right do the same with the other two bolts. Now, take a air hammer with a punch end in it and hammer on the heads of the bolts, a little at time, on all the bolts, evenly until the hub is loose. If you don't have a air hammer a hammer and punch or drift will work. Then remove the bolts the rest of the way and pull the assembly off. Now you have to drive the wheel studs out and remove the rotor. I just described it on 3/4 ton a 1/2 ton might be easier but the principle is the same, I think there are only 3 bolts holding the hub on and the bolt sizes may differ. Also I think you can pull the rotor right off once caliper is out of the way. Sorry about that.
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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