Disconnect the negative battery on both batteries for 15 minutes; then re-connect. If the problem persists, look inside the plastic connector and see if one of the pins got pushed in preventing contact.
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Invest in a cheap test light or make your own, test the input terminal at the starter by earthing the test light on the battery then touching the positive to the input to the starter, also test the starter activation power wire.
The best place to start is getting the code read and see what malfunction was detected. While the Power Stroke is a very strong and reliable engine it is loaded with sensors and computer controls. Anything short of that would just be a guess.
It sounds like the "Timer" for the glowplugs, but you may want to prime the Fuelfilter to provide a draw for the fuel. One of the problems is you lost the fuel in the lines as soon as the fuelpump was disconnected.
If you installed the fuelpump because of a "NO start" condition it may have been the Glowplug timer all along. You may have taken a wire loose for the Timer or broken a wire. The Timer box needs feedback from the Glowplugs.
Disconnect one of the Glowpug wires and put in a test light to the wire. Observe when you put the engine in RUN position if the Testlight will light up. If the Testlight does not light, you are not getting power to the Glowplugs.
Diesels need Glowplugs only for starting. After that, the compression operates the engine. The Timer for the Glowplugs regulates how long the Glowplugs work each cycle. You may have to test the Glowplugs if they get power but do not work.
Each Glowplug is like a sparkplug. You would need to pull them and connect 12 Volts to each. Use a jumper cable and do not touch the threads. Use power sparingly or you can melt them. But 1 by 1 you can see a difference in a bad or good glowplug by how each gets hot.
The 7.3 power stroke is not tha bad sheesh its actually pretty simple ok let me ask some questions here ok lets start simple when cranking does the needle on the tach move to approx. 5-600 ? if not more than likely its a cam sensor in which case there is actually a recall from ford they will fix it free.... yes I said free :) if not my second guess would be the Idm they were notorious for getting moisture in them btw IDM stands for injector driver module and you can find a good reman unit online for 200 "use google" if you have a friend with a high end scanner hook up and watch engine rpm there and also do a "buzz test" no buzz = idm fail
another easy thing to do is open the drain on the fuel filter bowl and turn the key on and crank for 1 sec is there fuel shooting out ? if there isnt check fuel pump well that about covers it good luck please let us know whats up :)
If you are looking for a complete wiring harness diagram then faxonautoliterature has the original Ford service manual for your truck which has complete diagrams in it. If you are looking for components to check then Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual, part # 10330 has good diagrams of components and terminals pinpointed for testing purposes as well as the specs for those tests and a good diagnostic section. Hope this helps.
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