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Jim, this is not a hard job but you must do it right. I suggest you purchase the Chilton Manual for your car. Before you take it apart mark the location of the outer tie rod ends so you can have the toe-in at least close when you reassemble. You might want to replace the outer tie rod ends at the same time. If i am buying a rebuilt unit i always try to get a "A-1 Cardone complete unit" with the inner tire rod ends already factory installed.
Play in the steering wheel is likely from worn tie rod ends. Have your inner and outer tie rods checked. The outer tie rods are connected to the rod ends coming out of the rack on each side, and are connected to the wheels. The inner tie rods are not visible-but are on the rods under the protective boots on each end of the rack and pinion assembly.
You may need a new rack assembly, but first check if you just need new tie rods.
Faulty power steering rack and pinion or low on power steering fluid causing the whining noise.Tire wear on the outside is usally worn out tie rod ends or front end. out of alinement.As for the ABS and trac light you will need to have the computer scaned.Could be faulty wheel speed sensor.
Yes it is very possible the tie rod adjustment was not completely returned to it's previous position (not perfected by eye) after removing to install new boots; note be sure to ask that inner tie rod seals are ok, otherwise the boot replacement is only a temporary shield for the leak.
Removal of the rack and pinion is not too difficult.
Place the car on chassis stands on flat hard standing or in a garage.
Remove the front wheels.
Centre the steering and tie the steering wheel in place.
Remove the tie rod ends. You can either buy a tool to do this but a simple way it to loosen the nut without removing it and giving the steering knuckle a sharp crack with a hammer. This should loosen the tie rod end and the nut can be fully removed.
Loosen the fitting holding the rack to the steering wheel.
Remove the pipes to the steering fluid reservoir.
Remove the brackets holding the rack to the body.
You can now pull it out.
Fitting the new one is the reversal. However, before you connect it to the steering wheel, you need to make sure it is in the centre position.
Refill the steering fluid, start the engine and swing the steering from left to right to remove air. Put your wheels back on, Make sure that your wheels ar both pointing in a straight line.
Drive carefully to the nearest alignment centre because you alignment will be out and you will wear your tyres out in triple speed and your car might handle poorly until it has been aligned properly..
it is the one connected to rack and pinion. there are two types inner and outer tie rods. Inner tie rod is The one connected closest to rack and pinion. Outer tie rod is the one connected to steering knuckle.
Genreally speaking the outter tie rod is only worn. The inner connection to the rack is more of a coupling than a rod end. You will need a 22 mm openend wrench and probally a 16mm and a 18mm opened wrench. A set of pliers to remove the old and bend the new cotterpin. Remove wheel cover and loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and place jack stand or wood blocking, (or as a minimum place the wheel you removed) under the car to prevent the car from falling on you while it's in the air. Do not rely on the jack to keep the car up. Cars are heavy. remove wheel Loosen jam nut that locks the tie rod end to the connecting rod of the steering rack, spray adjustment treads with penetetrating oil to help it spin free. You may have to lock the adjustable shaft by the placing wrench on the hex portion of the shaft just inwards of the tread. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end. Remove nut. Take hammer and drive the tie rod from the steering knuckle. To help with the alignment of the front wheel try not to move the the steering knucle brake assembly. Unscrew the tie rod , lubricate the tread and in stall the new one. adjust the treads so that the tie rod slides back into the steering knuckle without turning the knuckle. Install the tie rod nut, tighten and secure with new cotterpin. Do not tightnen the jam nut that locks the tie rod nut to the inner adjustment rod for the steering rack, instead place the wheel back on the car, lower car and finish tightnen. with the car lowered, position the car steering wheel straight. Look at right side wheel. You should be able to line the the edges of the front wheel with your eye's with the outside edge of the rear wheel. if this doesn't line up check steering wheel postion. Now after seeing what the wheel alaignment looks like on the right side, go to the left side. If you look along the outside of the left ire and you see the tread of the rear tire , you have to muckh toe out. Lenghten the adjustmne t rod by turning it clockwise. If when you look along the edge of the tire and you don't see the rear tire, turn the rod counter clockwise. Adjust slowly and always check that the steering wheel is in the straight position. Once you have it fairly close to straight, lock the jam nut on the tie rod and take to a wheel alignment company for finishing adjustment. Good luck.
pretty decent job ahead first jack up car support with jack stands remove front wheels remove nuts on tie rod ends remove tie rod ends from spindles with tie rod end tool or tap with malet were they sit to loosen them hit the spindle area not the tie rod or tie rod threads then dissconnect power steering lines from steering rack also disconect steering linkage to rack there should be 2 main bolts holding assembly to frame remove them should free rack i know that car may have a unique design were u may have to remove inner tie rod ends first if it has those round bushings that always go bad disconect inner tie rod ends behind engine on top of steering rack then remove rack from wheel well replace those inner tie rod bushings u may be able to leave outer tie rod end connected to spindles and u may be able to get to the sterring rack from behind engine good luck