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Looking for any trick removing right hand half shaft from 2004 Sedona. So far I have removed the inner boot, allowing me to remove the shaft with the inner part of the inner CV joint. After cleaning away some grease was able to grip the cup with pair of vise grips. That gave me something to hit from the trany side trying to remove CV cup. Is this really stuck or am I missing something stupid?

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  • jpaint1 Jan 01, 2014

    pwobrien1 that sounds very depressing. After spending 30 years working on aircraft I wont take no for an answer. Even if I need to use a cut-off wheel to gently cut toward the spline then pry, but thanks...

  • Jerry Kramer
    Jerry Kramer Jan 01, 2014

    Do you have pictures of where you are at.

  • jpaint1 Jan 01, 2014

    No photos as of yet. Where I am is the spline going inside the inner C/V housing of the right hand (passenger side) from the intermediate shaft.

  • jpaint1 Jan 01, 2014

    Gave the wrong name last time instead of answering pwobrien1 I was responding to Ron A Martinson I try never to reuse used parts especially when I have purchased them.

  • jpaint1 Jan 03, 2014

    Problem solved; purchased the proper tool for the job 5 lb. 24" Slide Hammer with a OEM 27058 adapter (crows foot style) to fit behind inner C/V cup. $50.00 total however this still didn't quite do it. I needed a really good swing that I could not get due to the strut and lower control arm interference. Purchased a section of 5/8" - 18 all thread along with coupler to extend reach of slide hammer getting my knuckles away from those pieces of steal. Was able to get a straight on shot with 5 lb. hammer popped loose with two solid hits.

  • eric white
    eric white Jan 22, 2014

    be sure to grease the splines before you put it back. will make next repair alot easier



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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 975 Answers

Usually a brass hammer or a carefully placed prybar, it should pop out

Posted on Jan 01, 2014

Testimonial: "It didn't just pop out or I would not be asking the question. I have changed half shafts out on many vehicles over the years, this one is really stuck."


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SOURCE: Tri-pot joint housing stuck on driver side of 2000

I have had this problem many times. I have always had to take the clamp off the drive axle boot near the transmission and take it apart there. I have never been able to get one off that did not pop off easy even after I had the transmission out. You just have to reuse the part that is stuck on the transmission and get a new clamp to re clamp the drive axle together. If you have any more questions feel free to ask and Ill do my best to answer them.

Posted on Feb 25, 2011

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SOURCE: removing half shaft and ball joint 93 pontaic grand am right side

You need a spindle nut, a bearing puller and a tie rod puller. Get a Haynes manual and it will walk you through the installation.

Posted on Apr 10, 2010

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: tring to remove cv joint

use a large pry bar pry the inner tripod cv joint out of the transaxle differential have a retaining circlip that holds transaxle in place in the transaxle.besure to replace circlip and o ring seal on the transaxle stub shaft.torque strut assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts.install the nuts to the attaching bolts and while holding bolt heads torque to 125 ft lbs and torque axle hub nut 125 ft lbs

Posted on May 18, 2011

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1 Answer

How do I replace a CV joint boot on the drivers side front on my 1991 Chevy cavalier rs? Front wheel drive 4 cylinder?

There are thee ways to do this. The first, easiest, but least reliable way is to use split boot repair kit. This allows you to cut the old boot off, clean the joint as best you can, install new grease, and bolt the split boot into place and clamp it. These boots have a higher-than-average failure rate however. The next ways require jacking up the drivers side of the car, remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. Then remove the hub nut that secures the half-shaft to the wheel bearing. Using a crowbar or other suitable tool, you must pry the inner CV joint out of the transaxle and maneuver the half-shaft out of the vehicle. You must take care not to separate the inner CV joint as it is easily damaged if overextended. You may have to separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm to remove this shaft as it is the shorter of the two and has less space to work for removal. Once you have the half-shaft out, there are two options - repair or replace. Repair requires removal of the joint from the half-shaft assembly, and it can be difficult for someone with no experience. The easier option is to replace the entire half-shaft with a re-manufactured one. The cost is not much more than that for the repair parts, plus you don't have to worry about dirt, grit and debris in the joint damaging it since it is already fully sealed. Replacement is the reverse of removal. You simply insert the shaft thru the wheel bearing opening and into the transaxle. You must "pop" the inner joint into place to latch it, otherwise it will cause damage by leaking and binding. You will feel it lock in when you do it. The last thing that is critical is that the hub nut has a specific torque requirement. Too much or too little torque will cause the wheel bearing to fail very quickly. So use a reliable torque wrench set at the correct setting. There is no "feel" for the correct tightness on this nut.

Oct 12, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove inner CV joint on a 2005 kia amanti

To remove an inner CV joint, you must remove the entire half-shaft from the vehicle. Here is the procedure:

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel Spindle nut Lower ball joint from the knuckle
  3. Press the stub shaft out of the hub, use a plaster hammer if necessary.
  4. If removing the left side halfshaft:
    1. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the inner joint out of the transaxle.
  5. If removing the right side halfshaft:
    1. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the inner joint out of the center bearing bracket.
    2. Remove the center bearing bracket mounting bolts.
    3. Using a suitable pry bar, pry the center bearing bracket from the cylinder block.
    4. Remove the inner shaft from the transaxle.

    The individual joints CAN be replaced, but this requires disassembly of the half-shaft by cutting the clamps that hold the boots and frankly is a greasy mess. Remanufactured half-shafts are available for less than $100 USD and are already assembled for immediate installation.

Sep 04, 2016 | 2005 Kia Amanti

1 Answer


You will have to get a pry bar in between the Trans and half shaft/ axle and use pushing force to remove. I've used leg power on certain cars to remove axle

Mar 31, 2014 | 2003 Kia Sedona

2 Answers

Cv joint but the plastic thang that go around it

One would have to remove the half shaft to service the cv joint properly.

CV-Joints Overhaul Check the CV-boot for wear tccs7030.jpg

Removing the outer band from the CV-boot tccs7031.jpg

Removing the inner band from the CV-boot tccs7032.jpg

Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing tccs7033.jpg

Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot tccs7034.jpg

Removing the CV-joint housing assembly tccs7035.jpg

Removing the CV-joint tccs7036.jpg

Inspecting the CV-joint housing tccs7037.jpg

Removing the CV-joint outer snapring tccs7038.jpg

Checking the CV-joint snapring for wear tccs7039.jpg

CV-joint snapring (typical) tccs7040.jpg

Removing the CV-joint assembly tccs7041.jpg

Removing the CV-joint inner snapring tccs7042.jpg

Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical) tccs7043.jpg

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Oct 08, 2010 | 2004 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?

These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.

  1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
  2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
    boot from the joint outer race.
  3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
    outer race (the body of the joint).
  4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
    assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
  5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
    splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
  6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
    to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
    of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.

  1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
    is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
    inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
    shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
    together. Insert the balls into the cage.
  2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
    specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
  3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
    bands is correct.
  4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
  2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
    that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
  3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
    halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
  4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
    shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
    damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:

  1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
    vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
    damper, if used, in the correct order.
  2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
  3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
    supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
    being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
    grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
  4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
    distance between boot bands is correct.
  5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery

Check the CV-boot for wear

Removing the outer band from the CV-boot

Removing the inner band from the CV-boot

Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing

Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot

Removing the CV-joint housing assembly

Removing the CV-joint

Inspecting the CV-joint housing

Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring

Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear

CV-joint snap ring (typical)

Removing the CV-joint assembly

Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring

Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)

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Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

4 Answers

I have a 2000 all-wheel-drive, the rear drive shaft is broken. I can't find the manual that covers Chrysler all-wheel-drive, it looks like the ABS monitor in it, and something from the transmission...

place a jack under the transmission and raise it a bit unbolt (the transmission mount) "i think thats what u mean its all i know that above the transmission holding it in place. You'll need a rachet wrench for this and a long onbe at that,, if not you can use a piece of pipe,, you'll want the extra power.. Unbolt it and lift it off,, if its still too tight jack the transmission up a bit.That providing your refering to the transmissing mounting rubber Which is all i can think you man its the only thing above the transmission. The ABS is 2 parts ,, its a mastercylinder and a booster. Its mounted on the firewall (its the thing you pour brake fluid in.) Unjack any wire or hoses by unscrewiung them and pluging them with something.. DUCT TAAPE or rescue tape works.. Unbloth both the mastercylinder and booster from the firewall... unmounting the drive shat.. well you'll see where it bolts ,, front and back.. Thats the easir part.. you will heed o happer, pull and tug the shaft until it pops out.. Hope I was helpful.. if you need more help please feel free to ask.

Mar 08, 2010 | Chrysler Town and Country Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Removal front wheel bearing 2003 mazda protege

hi there, i have 2 mazda6s, both off which i needed to removed the inner axels on, so far you have done every thing right :), but unfortunatly due to mazdas sloppy assembly the inner axles are near impossible to remove, you could try getting a 2 or 3 legged puller and remove the brake calliper and disk then try and "pull" the shaft out, but unfortunatly i doubt will work. your second option would be to use a hydraulic ram to press it out, but again due to mazdas sloppy work it is near impossible with out damaging the hub, ive tryed both option and none of wich worked, so i brought 4 second hand hubs and outer C.Vs, hope this helps.

Aug 13, 2009 | 2003 Mazda Mazda6

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Feb 15, 2009 | 1995 Isuzu Rodeo

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i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
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then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.

Jan 27, 2009 | 2003 Ford Escape

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2005 kia sedona ECU replacement

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Sep 13, 2008 | 2004 Kia Sedona

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