Question about 1998 Dodge Ram 3500 2WD

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2000 chevy corvette changed water pump and therm bubbling through rad cap

Changed water pump and therm car now has no heat and runs hot

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  • tom jackson
    tom jackson Jan 01, 2014

    Hi tom jackson, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?

  • tom jackson
    tom jackson Jan 01, 2014

    Hi tom jackson, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? sure, i changed out therm and waterpump, car ran good then started jumping hot to dead center, took out thermostat put it in boiling water and it only opened 1/4 of the way changed to another thermostat and the car started bubbling through cap and running hot, i took of the two heater hoses one to the heatercore and the other to the overfill and both let out tons of hot steam. drove it and it maintained even temp is ther another way to bleed this system and does it seem to have air in it

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  • Expert
  • 293 Answers

This is a fun Question, A large number of the wedge style sports cars and even more modern cars that have the engine thermostat higher than your radiator cap, these need to be bled or like the late mustangs have a bleed line to the expansion tank, this is to allow your thermostat to get wet and work correctly. the radiator system normally bleeds its self but some have a bleed nipple on the thermostat housing, a dry motor will boil and not open the thermostat I would also look at the head gasket

Posted on Jan 01, 2014

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  • Dodge Master
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There should be no air in the cooling system and the system can be bled by using a pressurising equipment . Ensure that the thermostat is placed in the motor the right way with the body facing the hot water (head or block). Air defeats the purpose of having a pressurised cap and system.

Posted on Jan 01, 2014

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

MrScary66613
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SOURCE: 2004 Dodge Stratus 2.4L Overheating

Thermostat if water is Running. Cheapest Fix to start with!

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

morse008
  • 1111 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 98 dodge 1500 5.9 with 180k.Changed the

your sure you installed thermostat correctly and no leaks around it ...are both top and bottom hoses hot going into and out of the heater-core and all fluid temps are at specified levels ...
you may also have an air bubble which when back-flushing may occur was the vehicle getting heat prior to reinstalling another thermostat / and while fluid was replaced into the radiator circulation /flow of exchange from the motorto the radiator are presenty working no vacuum lines are dry-rotted causing a vacuum leak ..hmmm you can hear the heater flaps open and change from the dash defrost to floor to vents etc ok that sounds like its working but check with the cap off to the radiator for proper fluid levels and that the fluid is exchanging and both the top and botto hose into and out the firewall are hot if the top is hot and the bottom one is coldyou may still have a lot of sediment /gunk in the core itself and reflushing the core is required and remember not to use full force when doing so or you risk rupture to the unit /core with the motor off remove the 2 hoses face the bottom or top on towards the catch pan because its illegal to disburse it onto the ground and whether your back flushing it or just running the water through you will also dislodge the air bubble as it fills with water after your sure the above is all looked into check to ensure the flow of fluid is present ...this is my starting point on your issue ...

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

j_del
  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: BOTTOM RAD HOSE COLD TOP HOT. ENGINE TEMP ABOUT

Did you burp the air out of the system after changing those parts? It sounds like the thermostat isn't opening which is why the lower hose is still cold. Click my screenname, go to my tips and tricks, and choose the one about burping the cooling system - it may help you out.

Posted on Jan 28, 2010

  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 dodge stratus 2.4 litter

get a Haynes manual and see if the water hose has a bleeder screw on a line that is up higher than most.
Usually a small line that runs over the top of the motor. I had this happen on a chevy Malibu and I just had to open the screw while running (but not hot) to bleed the air out of the line.

Posted on Aug 31, 2010

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: Heat troubles..92 dodge caravan 3.3L..new

If it is fogging your windows, you have a leaking heater core. Dash removal is required to fix it.

Posted on Jan 11, 2011

Testimonial: "great advice,,but I am not losing antifreeze from my cooling system,"

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1 Answer

How can i ell if my water pump is failing


over heating has many causes.
what are the signs, just the gauge going high. ?
steam shooting out rad cap. (is the cap even good>?)
side recovery tank, blasting? with hot water and steam.
oil in the RAD neck , (cold engine) RAD=Radiator assembly.
antifreeze "AF" in the engine oil>? (dip stick looks like milkchocolate?
leaks to the ground, from what?? (find it)
does the RAD fan come on , overheated, It must. does it?
is the RAD core clean? outside, ? not packed with bugs and leaves.
the #1 failure part is the thermostat. put in a new one. and cap.
they are cheap . and easy to change out both cap and STAT.
are you running 50% AF? , using the Prestone $2 tool for the test?
AF raises the boiling point of water, to 260?F
the cap holding pressure and the AF both raise it that high.
if car does not over heat, moviing, only, nows that time to say so..
get in car, cold , drive did it overheat with no stop signals?
(moving gives free air flow to the RAD, proving it works)
Use the radiator leak down tool. to see of loop is beached.
Use the Exhaust gas detector tool at RAD cap to see if the head gasket is blown.

how do you know the pump is. bad.
1: it leaks
2: the impeller is dust.
3:ITS pulley wobbles like mad.

my answer, the pump is after all other test pass.
including a RAD core, thermogram
i can check each rad tube 1 by 1, in fact i threat my RAD
as 10 or more tiny radiators (it is)
see 50 mile test here, RAD cores
They get 34f degree tube drops.. each tube must drop or its clogged.
all for a $15 tool and no burned fingers.
measure each tube about 2inch from top of tank and bottom
and both tanks. (this test is very revealing)
http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/therm-o-gram.html

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if no air in the system from internal heater or other places
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old school air bleed
you fill coolant system with motor running
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burp the hoses until bubbles are no more

if still no better
what about these possibles
faulty coolant temp sender
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If it gets hot running down the road,30 mph or better,the fan is not at fault.The fan only keeps it cool at low speed,when there is no airflow. If you take the rad cap off ,truck cold,and watch the water,if you see bubbles,almost like carbonation bubbles,a head gasket would be suspect.

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I would feel the two 3/4" heater hoses that run from the engine into the heater core, if both of them are hot (providing the engine is at full temp) it one is hot and the other is cold maybe the heater core is plugged.

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I have a 1990 Ford f-150 XLT 4x4 with a 351W 5.8L engine. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, and cap. Now the antifreeze is being pumped into the overflow tank to where it is overflowing. The...


Run engine from cool, with rad cap off & heater on heat (not AC) and watch for circulation through rad when engine reaches normal operating temperature. Rev engine slightly from time to time for a couple of seconds, to increase flow & help bleed air out of system. Let it run for a while, and watch for increased flow in rad 2 or 3 times. Probably see air bubbles at same time.Hot coolant from engine comes in top, and back out bottom to engine after cooling in rad. The increased flow in rad ,indicates thermostat is opening & circulating cooler liquid back into engine. After 2 or 3 times put cap back on & fill return bottle only to line specified as warm/hot engine level.

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