Cracked trans case when a new axel bearing was put in and must have slippied out! I was looking for a download manual or diagram for this. 2001 Kia Magentis 4 or 5 speed automatic. Not my car but thinking on getting it! prduction date or Jan 17, 2001. DOHC 2.5lt.
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WITHOUT YEAR/MAKE/MODEL it is hard to be accurate with any help. The fluid may have leaked from a transmission line a transmission cooler...a cracked tank in the radiator... a front pump seal in the transmisson..... a cracked transmision case... a transmission pan/gasket etc
If it's leaking then it needs a gasket put on or RTV GASKET MAKER put on the cover or it's just simply cracked some how if it's the cover then take a drop pan drain the remaining fluid and clean both surfaces very good possibly spotless then apply the RTV high torque grey sealant gasket maker very thick around the edge and center where the bolts are and re apply the cover but make sure it lines up and is very clean inside also if it's a slip posi rear end you will need a bottle of friction conditioner and 3 1/2 bottles of motor craft differentail fluid as recommended by ford and remove the filler plug after the RTV is dry and refill the rear axel and if it remains to leak either you sealed the cover wrong or bad plug otherwise the axel is cracked and needs to be replaced
Did you also replace the pressure plate? Pilot bearing? If you replaced the clutch...and the car moved, and then stopped moving again...your issue is likely right there, bad pressure plate, flywheel may need resurfaced or replaced ETC. I am curious to know what the old clutch disc looked like when you took it out. Was it glazed or worn? I would pull the tranny again, and look at the new disc to see if it is glazed looking from slipping...and note if it is both sides, or one side, and which side...plate side or flywheel side. If you didn't replace the pressure plate/pilot bearing with the clutch disc...I would do that.
Sounds like you might be describing a classic case of bad wheel bearing. The best way to find out is to run the vehicle on a lift while using a mechanic's stethescope to locate the source of the noise.
most likely it will be just the bearing, unless someone has driven it this way for prolonged time in this case it might need other parts as well such as a new axel, or even a rotor. if it has been the case then the axel nut that holds the axel in the bearing has gotten so hot the chances of loosining it up will be verry slim and verry hard to remove, thus damaging the axel nut threads. if nit is this loose, I would expect to replace the bearing and the axel.
I'll have to make some assumptions to answer this question. I'm assuming that you have a manual transmission and I'm assuming that you had a real mechanic (not a tow truck operator or gas station attendant!) take a look at the problem in depth. If that's the case, and if it has already been properly determined that the rest of the drive line--including the clutch--is not the issue, then the problems with the manual transmission can include:
--a cracked gear --a cracked or broken gear shaft --a seized or spun bearing --a locked synchronizer preventing the changing of gears.
Any of these internal issues mean that you will be buying a rebuilt or a used transmission. In the old days, mechanics would take transmissions apart, fix the problem, and replace the same trans back in the car. Today, especially with the more complicated front drive systems, mechanics will just swap out the trans for a used one or a model rebuilt by a factory or a specialist. I imagine the cost will be substantial if all of these assumptions I've made are true.
Remove the wheel and the lower ball joint from the spindle. It will also make it easier if you remove the tie rod end. There is a large hut at the tire end of the axel. Remove that nut and washer. Take a rubber or brass Hammer and hit the end of the axel to push it through the bearing assembly. If it is really stuck, put the nut back on so that the nut is even with the end of the axel and uses a heavier hamer to break it loose. Once you break it loose, pull back on the rotor while pushing the axel to remove it from the hole it passes through. (Becarefull with the brake hose. If it is pulling too tight it might be best to remove the caliper and use a hanger to suspend it until you are done.) You will need a really BIG screw driver or a pry bar. Put the pry bar between the case and the hub of the axel and push in quickly and firmly to pop it out of the trans axel. It might take a few tries. If it resists look for a ridge and put a big screw drive on the ridge and use a hammer to pop it out.
Once it is out, reverse directions. Do not use the hammer on the new axel any where.put the end into the trans axel as far as it will go and then put the other end through the wheel bearing. Use the leverage you have with the rotor and bearing side to push the axel into the trans. You should hear it snap into place. Before you put the ball joint back on go to the trans axel side and use that pry bar and gently try to remove. if it resists it is seated, if it slides out, you need to seat it again. ONce you are sure it is firmly seated back into the trans, you can bump the ball joint and tie rod back together.
The beaings job is to not only give the axle something to rotate on, but also the keep the axle centered in the hole. When the bearing gets loose, it allows the axle shaft to have an oblong roation, which wears on the seal and allows it to leak. You don't have to run the trans low on fluid to have the output bearings go bad. If you have gone enough miles to wear out a clutch, you have gone enough miles to get some play in the bearings.
Is it a manual or automatic trans?If it's auto trans,there will be a dipstick tube near the firewall on the passenger side.You fill the trans through the dipstick tube with a funnel.Careful not to overfill.If it's a manual trans,there will be a plug halfway up the side of the trans.Remove the plug & fill till it starts to leak out the plug hole.Be sure to use the recommended fluid in either case.Good luck, ChevRev