Question about 1997 Honda Accord
I've removed the following: the dash, the console, the steering beam, glove box, instrument panel, the two nuts holding the heater housing in place and I still can't remove the heater assembly. Can someone help me or point in the right direction?
Has to be other nuts or fasteners. Check on the firewall side, too, behind the engine. There could be nuts or fasteners on that side.
You do have the heater hoses already removed? I think you just missed all the nuts holding the heater case. Good job getting that far, just keep looking, pretty sure there would be more than just two nuts, even one more, but check on the firewall side.
Posted on Dec 31, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Instrument panel lights
i just recently replaced mine and the temp control had burned . the dash fascia needs to be removed. the vents must come out and then remove the screws that hold it on..there are probably 10 screws.. under the vents , behind the ashtray, and behind the cruise control switch and dimmer switch.. once this is done you need to remove the 4 screws that hold the heater control unit in. the bulb that needs to be replaced lights up temp control and fan speed...you may be able to download an exploded veiw of the dash fascia...this is an involved job...but worth it at night!
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
SOURCE: 2003 honda door lock
There is a clip just behind the plate holding the key lock you need to pull the clip out then the handle will come apart the clip is shaped like a u if you use a mirror underneath the lock on the inside of the door you will see it
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
SOURCE: 1996 honda civic wont start
The clicking sound you heard most likely the starter solenoid engaging the starter. Only in this case it's failing to engage the starter. This is a classic symptom of a low battery. Here's why.
In a perfect world, when you turn the key to start:
If you don't have a voltmeter, what you need to do now is visit an auto parts store (not a shop). Most (in the hope of making a sale) will provide free testing of batteries and charging systems.
What you need is called a "Load Test" on the battery. It simulates the load of an engine being started. This will confirm the battery is good or bad.
Then with the car running, they need to check the voltage to the battery (they will know this). If it's not above +13VDC, the alternator is bad or not connected correctly.
And if it doesn't start, what better place to be?
Let me know what they and you find out by commenting.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
I will never understand why this service is so expensive at the dealership.
I made a video showing how this is done: (I would recommend watching the video in HQ and full screen)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Bad grounds cause weak dim lights and intermittent operation a positive circuit shorting to a metal ground causes shorts and blown fuses burnt connections. You need a wiring diagram for the circuit and need to trace the wires and look for a short. Or if there is no short in the wiring and this vehicle uses a module computer for the lighting the module could be faulty.
Posted on Nov 21, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Well, here's the instructions from the service manual. The labor guide says this can be done in 1.6 hours...I don't see how, unless the instructions are wrong about having to remove the instrument panel. My thoughts are that if you are only doing the blower motor, the blower assembly will come out without pulling the dash. You probably only have to do a partial disassembly and remove the glove box and the glove box lower support.
Removal and Installation
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove Instrument panel. (See Instrument Panel Removal) Disconnect resistor connector. remove blower assembly duct. Disconnect motor connector. Remove blower assembly
2. Remove blower assembly screws and blower motor assembly. Remove clip and fan from assembly. Separate motor case and remove blower motor. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disable air bag system. See AIRBAG RESTRAINT SYSTEM article in ACCESSORIES/SAFETY EQUIPMENT SECTION. Disconnect negative battery cable. Scribe mating marks on steering wheel and shaft for installation reference. Using Steering Wheel Remover (J-29752) remove steering wheel. Remove steering cowl.
2. Remove instrument panel grilles and plug, or driving pattern indicator panel (A/T Models). Disconnect electrical connections. Remove instrument panel hood, instrument cluster ezel and instrument cluster. Remove hood release handle. Remove knee protector.
3. Remove dash fuse/relay block and side trim. Remove engine control module box. Remove radio console and glove box lower reinforcement. Remove speaker covers and glove box. Remove heater control panel knobs and cover. Disconnect heater control cables, and remove heater control panel. Remove illumination control knob. Remove instrument panel.
1. Install instrument panel. Install and adjust heater control cables. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Ensure mating marks on steering wheel and shaft align. Apply grease to contact ring and tighten steering wheel nut to 26 ft.lbs. (35 N.m).
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