Question about Cars & Trucks
Already diagnosed problem. Need instructions to replace lifters.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
valve lifters make a kind of rattly knocking noise! which sort of follow engine revs.if they are gone you may need a new camshaft as well, best to do itr all at the same time and are sold as a kit.are you sure there is a new noise or are you just listening harder?
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
Crank the engine until the mark on the damper aligns with the TDC mark on the timing tab and the engine is in #1 firing position.
To adjust a valve back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod. Tighten the nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrods with your fngers. When all lash is removed the pushrod will stop rotating. When all play is removed rotate the nut one full turn.
With the engine in #1 firing position the following valves can be adjusted:
Crank engine one full revolution - The following valves can now be adjusted:
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
That depends on when was the last time the car was serviced and how many miles its done since the last service.
If its a high milage car then having the valves set should clear up the misfire and the lifter tick.
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
Please don't forget to rate!!!!
2.2L Engine When installing new lifters, a pre-lube should always be applied to the lifter body. It is also a good idea to prime hydraulic lifters by submerging them in clean engine oil and depressing the plunger using an old pushrod. This allows the internal components of the hydraulic lifter to coat with oil before initial operation in the engine. All lifters should be replaced when a new camshaft is installed.
If any valve train components (lifters, pushrods, rocker arms) are to be reused, they must be tagged or arranged during removal to assure installation in their original locations.
Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets ...
... then remove the anti-rotation brackets
The lifters are located in bores in the engine block
Use a lifter removal tool to remove the lifters from the bore
If installing a new lifter, coat the lifter body with a suitable camshaft pre-lube
Removing the hydraulic roller lifter from the 2.2L engine
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
Ok, Alternators are a breeze on these things. There are two bolts that hold it on, and 2 sets of wires. If you haven't taken anything apart yet, and the belt is still on it, here's what to do. You will want one of those rubber or elastic bungee cords, about 2 and a half feet long(this makes it easy). Hook that bungee cord to your hood somewhere, so that it hangs down. Hook the other end on the serpentine belt right next to the alternator pulley. If you need to prop the hood up with a stick or something to keep it up, do so. Pull up on the belt, and watch the pulleys. The one that probably has a plastic pulley on it that moves up and down(this is the tensioner) is the one that you'll put a deep well socket in the middle of with a ratchet, and turn counterclockwise. This will make the belt go loose. Now you can work the belt off the alternator pulley, and once you get it off, the bungee cord will keep it in place, so you don't have to look at the diagram. Otherwise, if it comes off, there is a sticker just under the hood either on the fan shroud or the radiator support that has the belt diagram. Now, you can disconnect the battery, pull the rubber boot down off the nut and post on the back of the alternator, remove the nut and wire, and then unhook the wire from the side of the alternator. Now, you can remove the two bolts that hold the alternator on. You Will need to pry the alternator off at this point, as it fits really tightly in place. A socket extension or a large flat screwdriver works really well for this. Once you get it off, put the new one on exactly as you took the old one off. Note, you will have to release your tension on the tensioner at some point; i just ease it down, or if I can pull it off, wedge it somewhere where it won't loosen very far. Remember, on the tensioner, you're not trying to take the nut off. All you're doing is using it to move the tensioner arm. That's all there is to this job. Sometimes it can be stubborn with the prying part, especially getting it into place. Hope this is what you're after, and if you need more info, leave a comment for me.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
Testimonial: "Great advice on the bungee cord!! Well written advide and easy for a novice to follow. Thanks"
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 28, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 05, 2015 | 2001 Chevrolet Suburban
Aug 17, 2010 | 1991 Chevrolet Suburban
Aug 16, 2010 | 1988 Chevrolet S-10
Feb 06, 2010 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks
Oct 28, 2009 | 1998 GMC Suburban
Sep 20, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet Sportvan
Aug 26, 2009 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks
Mar 07, 2009 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks
94 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: