Question about 1995 Jeep Wrangler
95 yj (quite means, hot , low or mid?,) just a clue.?
4.0L? all fuses good,?
the FSM covers this , here is the outline (all cars this era)
1: IR pyro gun pointed to thermotat housing near 180f 170f min.
2: ok engine really IS hot. then we ground the gauge feed, meter,
pegs, meter good , I use a light bulb from ground to guage to
limit current (im nice to my meters)
3: i then find my temp sender, the one with 1 pin.
pull the connector with a hot engine
this is a passive NTC thermistor and is not the ECT with 2 pins.
its just for the gauge.
the 91 sender is different from a 95 so dont mix years,!!
92-95 are matched.
hot engine, 180F or more...
pull off the single wire. to the sender.
connect DMM set to OHMS (yes, omega symbol i s that)
select 200 or 2000 range, id use 2000, , if an auto ranging meter
let it range and read the LCD markers, it tells you what range it landed red to pin, the black to engine block. (rear top sender on 4.0L)
its not the sender bad, all in 5min work. no guessing at all
so if its good, the wires are bad. twinxed them.
the only hard part is finding good ohms charts that match your year.
all else is caveman simple 1 wire, gauge and sender.
i see many folks online mixing wrong clusters in jeeps
and wondering why the right sender dont work.
so did you cluster temp ever work right, this year, this decade?
ohms law , never lies, but wrong parts do.... every time.
the sender is NTC, higher ohms cold, , lower hot !
i could not FIND the sender spec. at all.
1million hits for ETC, zero for gauge.
my guess is sender will read high ohms cold , 1000 or more. more cold more ohms... (resistance)
then drop in ohms as engine warms might drop to as low a 80 ohms.
but will drop , gauge wire (it only has 1) disconnected.
Posted on Dec 31, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i just bought a used 97 CHEROKEE but i had the same problem, when i got to looking at it i found out the front driveshaft was shot, look at that, if its not it i would say its probably the transfer case especially with an older vehicle like that which is a very expenxive repair
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
There is a voltage regulator for the instruments, usually located on the back of the instrument panel. This may be kaput or it may just have corroded/loose connections. I would check this first.
Posted on May 08, 2009
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