Question about 2000 Kia Sportage
Your problem is half normal actually. Pumping the brakes will build more pressure in the system and will make the pedal harder and the brakes will brake alot more, the brakes are designes this way. But if the brakes don't release after you let go of the pedal, that's not normal. If this is the case, there may be a few things that can be faulty, but i'd start by checking/replacing brake vacuum booster unit. If the unit is ok, then probably one of the calipers on the brakes are starting to jam due to rust and dirt, especially if you see the the rubber seals on the caliper pistons are damaged or missing.
Posted on Dec 31, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi check all your brake linnings for contamination especially brake fluid on the linnings if this is ok you have a build up of pressure if its possible for you drive till the brakes start to lock up get out go to each wheel see if any of them is getting hot if so the problem is on that wheel jack it up to see if the wheel is locking if its red hot it will be sticking then try the rest of the wheels one at a time jack them up see if its one wheel or all if its one wheel release the bleed nut on that wheel see if it releases if it does it must be fitted with a pressure regulator to that wheel replace it . now if its all wheels its more likely to be the brake master cylinder or if fitted pressure regulator that supplies all the wheels a long shot i cannot see but better to mention it the brake pedal is not sticking and holding down yates210456
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
SOURCE: brake pedal trouble
have the brakes bleed first and if that does not take care of the problem have the master cylinder checked because the check valve in the master cylinder could be bad
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
SOURCE: 1998 kia sportage
If you don't have any brake lines leaking, change the master cylinder, bench bleed the new one then bleed the blakes, starting with the right rear, left rear, right front, then left front. If the booster was gone, you would hear air leaking out of it when you pressed the pedal down.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
SOUND LIKE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS THE ALTERNATOR ON LOWER SIDE OF THE ENGINE.IF INNER FENDER SPLASH SHIELD MISSING WHEN DRIVING ON WET ROADS WATER WILL GET THROWN THROUGH INNER FENDER WELLS FROM CAR TIRES IF SPLASH SHIELD NOT IN PLACE WATER CAN SHORT ALTERNATOR OUT AND GET THE IGNITIONS COMPONENTS WET CAUSING ENGINE PROBLEMS.IF A AUTO ZONE OR ADVANCE AUTO PARTS STORE NEAR BY GET THEM TO SCAN CAR THEY WILL DO IT FREE TO SEE WHAT CAUSING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON.
Posted on Jun 14, 2010
check the lenth of the rod between the booster, and the master cylinder if it has been turned , or replaced, it may be too long, and won't let the brakes release.
I had the same experience with an older car when i changed the booster,if the push rod,has been turned, (made longer by turning it),or replaced with another rod (some can be removed) that is longer than the origanal it can act as if the brakes are constantly applied, and when this happens the brakes will get very hot and could cause a fire (Yes i have seen this happen)
Usally when the rod between the booster, and the master cylinder is the problem,all wheels will be involved.If it is only the frount then i would recheck the calipers and pads, making sure that they are properly installed,(I've put them on rong and had them to lock up)
I hope this is helpfull,and you get it fixed !!!!
Posted on Nov 21, 2011
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