Question about Nissan Pathfinder

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My 1991 pathfinder has some issues, when I start it cold it always starts right up. At times when it is warm it wont start unless I pull out the fuel pump relay. My compression when warm is over 180 per cylinder. It also blows black smoke intermittently but not sure if that is from the sea foam I put into the tank. I changed the MAF sensor but I still get the ECU code for it, even reset the ecu. new plugs, cap, rotor, wires & fuel pressure regulator.

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  • bkasar May 21, 2009

    Aloha, I did clean the injectors out and changed all the orings, do you still think this could be my problem? I forgot to mention that the MAF I changed I bought used so could that be a problem as well. I will order new injectors next week when I get paid if you think I need to

  • bkasar Jun 16, 2009

    Ok so I have changed the MAF, fuel injectors, coolant sensor, trans filter & fluid & still dont got power. In park, it idles ok & revs great, but once I put it in gear & try to drive there is no power

  • bkasar Jun 16, 2009

    Also, the exhaust has alot of pressure blowing out so could my cat still be my problem?

  • bkasar Jun 24, 2009

    Been sick so I will try and do the voltage test tomorrow, I work grave shift so it will be later in the day my time, prob evening for everyone else.

  • bkasar Jun 24, 2009

    1 other question, is it possible that the timing belt even though new could be the wrong belt? It seems like the lack of power feels like a belt issue but as I said before i checked it 3 times on the marks.

  • bkasar Jul 04, 2009

    Ok, so I changed the MAF harness & replaced the timing belt again, checked the marks twice, starts right up idles smooth but no power. Then I tried something different, I moved my plug wires 1 spot to the right & WOW power up the ying yang but idles like ****. Any ideas?

  • bkasar Jul 10, 2009

    ok, so I did change the maf harness & I checked the voltage coming in, I get 13 v, am I reading wrong or did you say I should be getting only 5v? if so, do you know where these wires are getting their voltage from & how can I drop it to 5

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If you changed the maf sensor and you still get the code for it the problem could be in the wiring harness for the sensor. the ground in particular is important, but high resistance in the leads that report to the engine computer can also cause problems. it may be that if you replace that harness your other problems will go away. high exhaust pressure can cause problems for the cat but the cat does not cause that problem. without knowing what they are and what they are supposed to be that's a tough call. see what the maf wiring harness would cost and then you can decide whether you want to test it or just replace it. the only way to test it that will really tell you anything useful is a voltage drop test, in other words just testing that it will pass a small amount of voltage (that's all a continuity test will tell you) is not all that useful. it can pass that test and still be introducing unwanted resistance and reporting bad info to engine computer. high resistance in ground connection can also cause good sensor to pass bad info. maf is a powered sensor, needs five volt reference voltage, if connection is poor where 12v is split to 5v the reference voltage that is supposed to be 5v will be higher and all resulting inputs from sensor will be higher than they should be. hope that helps

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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The black smoke is obviously caused by unburned fuel in this case. Replacing the MAF was a good beginning. In addition, I would check the O2 sensors and then the catalytic converter. My MAF went bad a while back, resulting in my O2 sensors being ruined also. However, I was only getting the codes for the O2 sensors. The solution to replace your injectors is also a good one, but I would investigate the price differential between buying new ones and having your existing ones cleaned. You can usually have this done at auto shops.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

  • Gregory Jun 16, 2009

    Did you check/replace the oxygen sensors? I'd do that before replacing the cat since that will be $$$.

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Hi, my name is Dave. I believe you have one or more leaky fuel injectors. It could be the injector pintle valves or the O-rings that seal them to the fuel rail. You will need to attach a fuel pressure tester to the fuel rail, start the engine, shut it off, and then watch the rail pressure. If it drops rapidly, it is probably leaking past the deactivated injectors into the engine. That's why it's floode when you try and start it sometimes when it's warm. A cold engine likes lots of fuel for starting, not a warm one.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • Dave  C
    Dave C May 20, 2009



    Available on Ebay


  • Dave  C
    Dave C May 21, 2009

    Try it with the new O-rings and see. If it doesn't help, then I'm pretty sure you have leaky injectors. If you have some way to keep them mounted in the rail, but not in the intake so that you could watch the tips when the rail is pressured up, you could see which ones are leaking. Failing that, you'll have to do the gauge method with the return hose clamped off.
    Let me know,
    Dave


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I have a 1987 ranger 2.3 EFI and sometimes it will not start when it's cold. after it warms up outside it starts. When it does start it runs great. It always starts when warm. some times it will


Timing belt being off one tooth will not cause this problem but rather loss of power and hard starting all the time,

in the cold it will not start, the engine will spin but wont fire is this correct?

There are many things that can cause this, a little testing will be needed, the first thing that comes to mind with the ford and cold weather is the coolant temp sensor, it give computer a false reading and can cause hard starting or even no start, a scan tool would be helpful to see what temp it is give computer.
The best way to narrow this down to to check for spark when it wont start, a weak coil in cold weather will cause this problem or bad coil wire to cap, but if you can see if it has spark and let me know,
another test is to check fuel pressure, to see if it is getting fuel, and the fuelpump relay,

Let me know if it has spark or fuel when is does not start, good day

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