Question about Cars & Trucks
I have a2003 Chevy s10 I have replaced the vacuum ball under the battery but it still will not engage in4 wheel what should I check next
Vacuum hoses and connection under vehicle on transfer case. Sometimes vacuum switch goes bad also. Worst case, the control module for the 4wd
Posted on Dec 31, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is a vaccuum operated switch located on the transfer case that sends vaccum to the accuator that pulls a cable that locks the front end in. Check for vac coming in and out of this switch if no vac out replace it. This switch is a very common problem. You can find them at most parts stores in the help section #49315. please rate.
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
your problem sounds like either the transfer case control module located where you hear the clicking sound, or the actuator on the transfer case itself.
try unplugging the transfer case control module and then plug it back in, try engaging 4wd again (make sure your in neutral, coasting at 1-2 mph might help as well) if it still doesn't work check the actuator itself to see if the actuator is trying to engage. if the actuator is trying to engage but doesn't, take the actuator out and check it for wear or damage. if the actuator seems fine and it responds to the buttons when pressed i'd go after the transfer case control module as the culprit. ran into that a few times on those s-10's. 3 out of 4 that i've seen were fixed with a new tccm. 1 of the 4 needed an actuator, check your local junk yard for a working tccm or actuator.
hope this helps!
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
The vacuum switch on the transfercase is most likely the problem. If you remove it and the plunger is stuck in, replace it and your 4wd should engage again.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
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