Question about 1995 Chevrolet Impala
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like a mouse has got in and chewed the cables,their is no easy fix from what i can think of but check all the wires and connections in case water has got into it,or snow if your in alaska.its fifteen years old now so its possible that some insulation has broken down or a wiring loom has chaffed somewhere underneath
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
p0108 map curcuit high input, p0128 coolant temperature below thermstat regulating tempurature, p0341 is camshaft position sensor A-bank 1 ckt range/performance, p0401 is exhaust gas recirculation, insufficiant flow detected, p0420 is catalyst system efficiency below threshold, p1480 is manufacturer control auxilary emission controls, p1481 is same as p1480.
Posted on Aug 22, 2010
Cheak all wiring, one little **** in the wire will make a fuse blow. I had the same problem with my starter and i replaced the starter but it was still blowing the fuse, come to find out it wus a wire burnt into so cheak all wires carfully.
Posted on Jan 06, 2011
SOURCE: 1996 chevy Impala SS
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I'm sometimes accused of not giving short answers. However, my philosophy is that too much is better than too little.
Still with me?
This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.
My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is located under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions at this preliminary stage.
First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.
For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.
Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.
Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.
• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan - borrowed from AutoZone - is needed to identify any system trouble. Use this easy-to-use simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.
NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner www.repairpath.com
All the best
Posted on Jun 23, 2011
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