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the four axle nuts, 98 ft lbs, tighten in criss-cross pattern.
The hub nut/wheel bearing, 148 ft lbs, use new nut, don't let vehicle weight sit on the ground while torqueing, it could damage the wheel bearing.
If I left something out, give me a holler.
Dan, squeaking could be from improperly packed bearing or hub nut not tightened properly. Did you replace the races also.
Check the attached links, They will answer a lot for you.
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www.fordforumsonline.com > Ford Tech Forums > Engine & Drivetrain
May 7, 2010 - 2 posts - 2 authors
ISO torque specs for the intake & plenum for a 98 Windstar...3.8 with the ... Our community is here to help you with any questions you have related to your Ford. ... Lower Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt 8-12 - (71-106).
Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with wire, out of the way. Remove the caliper torque plate if equipped.
Remove the dust cap and then remove the cotter pin, lock washer (if equipped) nut lock and nut.
Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle with the outer bearing. Don't let the bearing fall out.
Pry the inner oil seal out and remove the inner bearing.
Clean and inspect the bearings and outer races.
Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive out the bearing outer race. Press a new one into position.
Pack the bearings with grease until it oozes out the other side. Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease.
Position the inner bearing into the hub, coat the oil seal with grease and press it into the hub.
Press the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing and thrust washer.
Install the hub nut. Turn the hub a few times to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut until there is 0mm axial play. Using a spring tension gauge, check that the preload (with new grease seal installed) is 2.2–6.4 lbs. (9.8–28.4N)
Install the lock-nut, new cotter pin and hub grease cap.
Install the brake torque plate. Install the brake caliper.
Install the wheels and lower the truck.
The hub and bearing service procedures for a 4wd models are basically the same as those for a 2wd version, with the exception of removing the free running hub assembly and the bearing preload adjustment. Refer to Sections 1 and 7 for additional information. Adjust the preload after the wheel bearing is replaced or the front axle assembly is reassembled.
BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
Thoroughly clean all parts and pack the wheel bearings.
Apply grease to threaded portions of the spindle, grease seal lip and wheel hub.
Tighten the wheel bearing lock-nut with a socket and torque wrench to 58–72 ft. lbs. (78–98 Nm).
Rotate the hub in both directions a few times to seat the bearings. Loosen wheel bearing lock-nut.
Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 2wd models
Fig. 2: Removing the bearing outer races
Fig. 3: Packing the wheel bearing with grease
Fig. 4: Pack the lip cavity of grease seal with grease
Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 4wd models
Measure wheel bearing axial end-play. The wheel bearing end-play specification is 0.
Install lock washer by tightening the lock-nut within 15–30 degrees.
Turn wheel hub several times in both directions. Wheel bearing should be seated correctly.
If necessary, measure wheel bearing preload.
NOTE: Measure wheel bearing preload with a spring-type gauge; measure at wheel hub bolt, with tire removed. The hub assembly should rotate with 1.6–4.7 lbs. (0.73–2.13 kg) of pressure.
2WD pickups don't have hubs. They have rotors with bearings. Once you have the brake assembly supported, remove nut from spindle. Be sure not to strip the threads on the spindle. Remove the front set of bearings and pull the rotor off. Remove the rear set of bearings. Be sure to pack greases into new bearings prior to installation. Insert new rear bearing into rotor and replace onto spindle. Insert new front bearing and washer and re-install nut. Tighten to recommended torque specs, grease fittings and replace brake assembly.
A Front Wheel Drive Vehicle Can Have Two Types Of Rear Wheel Bearings: Serviceable Bearings, Or Nonserviceable, Sealed Bearings. When Sealed Bearings Fail, The Bolts Holding The Bearing And Hub To The Axel Or Control Arm Must Be Removed. When Installing The New Bearing Assembly, Torque The Bolts To Specifications.Some Manufacturers require The Use Of New Fasteners When Rear Bearings And Hubs Are Replaced.
When A Serviceable Wheel Bearing Is Used, The Bearing Can Be Disassembled And Packed With Grease.It Is Serviced Like A Front Wheel Bearing On A Rear-wheel-Drive-Car.
You will need several tools to replace the bearing besides a socket set of metric and standard sizes to remove the wheel and brake caliper.
A 36mm socket (may be rented at some auto parts stores)
An Impact Wrench for the 36mm socket (air or electric should work)
A torque wrench (IMPORTANT!)- the 3 rear bearing bolts (12mm?) need to be torqued properly or else they will fail and cause the wheel to separate, i believe they need to be at 75 ft/lbs. Please check.
Do not attempt to do this yourself unless you have the proper tools and know how to use them. I recommend getting at least the Haynes manual that the stores have or buying the Dealers Service Manual (expensive but thorough and usually available on ebay!)