I had the same problem a while ago. Changed everything you can imagine, but didn't find the fault.
Turned out it was the MAF sensor. Expensive part if you buy genuine (don't buy one off Ebay!). But, you can get a much cheaper "pattern" part from a reputable parts company (about half the price, and work just the same).
The MAF sensor does NOT throw up a fault unless it fails completely, so don't expect to find one in the ECU.
It's very easy to change out, so you could try the problem by "borrowing" a sensor from somewhere else, just to prove the theory, before buying a new one.
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you don't adjust the idle for any accessories
The idle is set for smooth running of the engine( normally 750-900 rpms with a drop of 200-300 rpms with an ac running so set the idle at the upper rpms and it will still be smooth when the ac is on without affecting gear engagement
your problem I take it is that when the ac cuts in the idle rpms drops and makes the engine run rough
This is normal as the ac compressor takes up to 5 hp to drive it
what you need is an electric controlled vacuum pot connected to the accelerator lever so that when you switch on the ac the power to the ac clutch energizes the pot and vacuum pulls the accelerator lever to maintain the set idle rpms
such an item is found on most early carby operated engines
hi this could mean that the transmition ( automatic gearbox is low on oil ) there should be a dipstick under the bonnet towards the gearbox where you pull it out to see the oil level.
to get the true reading you dip for oil level when engine is worm
and ticking over .
Has to b the battery,if you changed the alternator then the batter isnt supplying any power to your sensors and computer. if your battery is weak the car might run at idle, but as soon as your drive your useing more draw. swap out a battery from a friend and you should b good.
If the cable is cut can you get under the car and remove the lower splash shield and possibly reach up in fromt of the rediator/condensor and find the cable. I would cut it there and feed it out the grille then strip the outer coating and grab the metal wire inside and pull. This should release the hood. good luck
Because the car has adaptive technology, it may take a while to reset and adjust to the new, cleaner and better conditions than those to which it had previously adapted.
Did you change the cap and rotor? if the plugs needed replacement, likely they do too
Possible other causes include:
loose or corroded connections to any electrical component you disturbed (make a checklist and tick them all off as you check them);
mis-reinstallation of any F.I. part disturbed(checklist again)
obstructed water flow through the AIC valve;
improper voltage output from the AIC valve (for LH 2.4 systems, should output 8 volt at idle, dropping as load increases; for LH 2.4.2 system output 7 volt at idle etc; testing between terminals)33 and 17 at disconnected LH connector;