Question about 2008 Saab 9-3

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Fail light for ride stabalization light

Why does the ride stabalization failed light come on and go off every once in a while and the same with the right fog lamp failure light when the light is still on for my 2007 Saab -3 Aero?
D. Laiben

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Leaking stabalizing air bag and or hoses or fittings

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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The shift lock on my automatic car is stuck in park. Can over ride this, but will this make me fail my MOT?


Check to see if he brake lights are working, the park lock out gets power from the brake light circuit, it will not unlock unless the brake lights work..

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It shouldn't as ride control only effects the the comfort of the ride and not its safety... but believe me any warning light will trigger a possible failure. Most inspectors really only have rudimentary knowledge of how certain models work and will fail you upon inspection. Probably a bad shock...get it fixed

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I believe fail safe mode is usually direct drive which in most 4 speed transmissions is third gear. As far as what could cause this could be many things, electrical, clutch leakage or transmission oil bypassing the clutch that the transmission wants to engage, clutch slippage which could be the friction disks in a certain clutch that don't have any friction material left on them. IE like a brake pad the friction material on the pad once it is gone the brakes don't operate very good you have metal to metal contact you need to change your brakes. same concept. Are their any codes? Did the check engine light or transmission light come on? If you have a light try and see what the light says by scanning the computer. this should give you a good place to start.

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I have a 96 olds silouette just had a new ac compressure put in, and head and manifold gasket job done on my ride, now today the inside blower fan doesn't work, can anyone give me an answer? p.s t


There is a resistor that controls the fan speed, it can fail. The brushes in the fan motor can fail, the bearings in the fan motor can fail.

It is possible the engine temp sensor had failed in a shorted position to always indicate overheating. It is also possible for multiple failures in a short time frame, I had to repair one that had 3 items fail on the same starting circuit, yet when going through the troubleshooting steps the first time everything checked fine up to the first component to fail, then once that was replaced, a second item had failed, likely due to the ability of current to flow without as much circuit resistance, and then it failed. followed by the next item that failed after the repair of the second item- yet during the troubleshooting, the first and second time, it checked out fine. Then it failed. Once repaired the car worked fine. It does happen. I once owned a truck that had a failure that 45 dollars in parts or more every 6 weeks like clockwork and each time it was something else, and this started about 10 months after I bought the thing.

With your van, there are some things you can check with a simple test light, disconnect the fan motor wire, and check to see if there is voltage with the test light. If there is light, check each fan position, Then run two jumper wires over to the fan terminals. apply 12 volt power. If the fan comes alive and you had voltage on the wire to the fan, check to make sure the ground wires or straps are present from battery to engine block, engine block to frame, engine block or frame to the body sheet metal. If any are missing, replace them. Because things behave badly when a ground wire is corroded through or broken.

The AC compressor runs on it's own fuse, the blower motor fan runs on it's own fuse, the temperature gauge runs on its own fuse with the other dash gauges. There is also a temperature sensor for the ECU, it is it's own discrete circuit.

You may also have a problem with vermin feasting on your wiring harnesses.

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