Question about 2004 Ford Taurus
I was driving my girlfriend's Taurus (170,000 miles) for about 100 miles during which it ran perfectly fine, but I noticed the Check Engine light come on during the last ten miles. I asked her if she had noticed the light before, and she said it had come and gone periodically during the time she had it. I pulled into the driveway and stopped, put it in reverse, and the engine promptly quit. I put it in park, restarted it, and it quit again, making a loud grinding sound during the short time it was running. I popped the hood, checked the oil, looked everything over, and everything looked fine. I started it once again and it was clear that the noise was coming from the passenger side of the engine, from one of the belt driven accessories. My gf's stepdad, who used to work at a Ford dealership, suspected the smog pump. The car would not run unless given lots of gas, it would soon die if left to idle. The car was towed to a shop that said that there was a bad electrical connection, and "fixed" it. The car will now idle, but the same noise is still there. I notice now that it seems the steering is heavier than it was, though I am not certain of this. Other things of note, the cruise control does not work, and the engine fluctuates RPMs at idle, the tach bouncing from 600 to 1200 rpm. Both of those problems had existed for quite a while before this recent incident and seem unrelated. Anyone know what this noise is?
Sorry about the car but don't waist your money trying to fix it just get a new used or new car it will cost you to much to fix
Posted on Dec 31, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The only idea I hbave is for you to buy a OBD II sensor code reader. Know half the time the codes are generic, BUT also if you go buy a Advance auto they will read the code for you for free. And that code is the correct answer to your problem. Just make sure if your truck loses the code when you cut it off, that you don't cut it off when you get to advance auto.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
Sounds like a bad idler pulley,or belt tensioner. Most likely not water pump since the check engine light is not on. Altho it couold be the water pump and for some reason (bad sensor, burnt out light) the check engine isnt coming on. Either way it would be best to have it looked at.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
If your check engine light came on when the problem occurred, then you need to have the diagnostic codes read. I am cheap, so I would suggest going to an Advance or Auto Zone, they will read the codes and interpret them for you in hopes of selling you the part that will fix it. Good Luck. I hope you find this very helpful!
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
SOURCE: My 2002 Ford Taurus, just
could be bad water pump,leaking anti freeze,may have blown the head gasket as result overhaeting engine,check oil for milky gray color,or see if coming out exhaust if so blown head gasket,have someone help you check it out
Posted on Aug 21, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 08, 2017 | Toyota Cars & Trucks
Apr 03, 2013 | 2004 Ford Taurus
Jan 23, 2013 | Ford Cars & Trucks
Aug 24, 2012 | 2002 Ford Taurus
Jun 24, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 23, 2012 | 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Jan 12, 2011 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks
May 21, 2010 | 1999 Ford Taurus
May 03, 2010 | 2002 Ford Taurus
Feb 07, 2010 | 2004 Ford Explorer
129 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: