Question about Cars & Trucks
Remve plug from the motor and aply a direct feed nad negative to the motor and if this works then test the resistor pack, if this is falty then replace, i take it you have already checked the fuse first
Posted on Dec 31, 2013
Testimonial: "Ian, I did exactly that! Checked the fan by jumping it and it did work so.... It was the resistor- 20 bucks and three minutes to change. I tested the wires going in to the resistor and was getting power from them, then I tested the out put of the resistor and the power was considerably lower. At first I was told if the fan doesn't come on at all- it was not the resistor. That was un true. Thanks,"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check the resistors located under the hood, passenger side in the air box. two screws hold it in place as well as a wire harness to un-plug. common problem on gm and chrysler.
If thats not broke and rusted, then check the motor, fuse, and the relay.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
OK So, I have had to replace the blower resistor twice and its still has failed. Now its time to replace the blower motor. I have the Haynes manual for this vehicle but it seems to miss some important steps. Here's what I did, I hope it helps you. This job is given 3.5 hours on the shop book and believe me, its not a wonder why.
Tools that I used
- standard screwdrivers 6" with 1/4 blade and 8" with 1/2" blade
- 1/4 inch ratchet with 2" and 1" extensions
- 8mm socket
- 10 mm wrench
- Phillips S2
- drill with attachment for screwdrivers ( I have tendonitis)
- gooseneck extension (plastic / flexible)
Here are the instructions from the Haynes book with my comments and pictures.
One note is that the picture in section 3-8, fig 10-10 is upside down. The Actuator motor is on the bottom of the unit, looks
like a black deck of cards with a wire going to it. Wires at clipped to the housing.
2001 and later models
Step 8 - Disconnect battery negative cable - Wrench 10mm (1/2inch)
Step 9 - Partially remove instrument panel.... - remove glove compartment to access the blower and evap area. Two clips on
either side, unsnap hinges. ( remember to empty the box)
Step 10 - Disconnect pigtail from blower motor resistor. Green/Black wires
Step 11 - Remove 2 screws to remove actuator. (8mm socket) Remove wire from clips and pull down to remove the acuator. This
will buy you about 1/2 of extra space. Before you do all this, remove the side carpet trim which allows you to pull back the
carpet and the silencer padding. This will allow for some more room to pull the housing down and believe me, you'll need it!
Step 12 - Remove 2 more screws on the air intake and lower housing. I had three screws, you should see them through the
Step 13 - Remove the 3 screws at the lower intake and lower evap housing.
Step 14 - Push rubber grommet through hole in lower housing. Use large blade screwdriver.
Step 15 - Remove lower intake housing from evap housing.
This is where it gets tricky.
You can remove the lower intake housing but you need to pry it out from the recirculation door.
The bottom of the unit where the actuator was has a round spindle that clips into place with the three plastic clips.
Lightly pry the lower clips and then also pry through the hole at the connection point. Picture below.
Once you pry it will release.
You will have to jiggle this loose but it will eventually come off.
with mine the recirc door POPPED out of its top rest. I had to make sure on how to get it into this spot as it doesn't stay in this spot.
Step 16 - Push wires through the hole if you haven't done so already.
Step 17 - Move recirc door about to help you reach the three screws that hold down the motor assembly.
Step 18 - GENTLY flex the door to remove the blower motor and wheel. I moved the motor 180 to help get into a better position.
Install is reverse. Need to make sure that the recirc door moves relatively easily. The calibration below will make sure all is set properly. If it doesnt pass you'll have to recheck the position of the recirc door top spindle and cavity line up.
Step 19 - Not in the book
18. Perform the heater-NC control calibration procedure:
a. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
b. Simultaneously depress and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the heater-A/C control for at least five seconds.
The manual heater-A/C control Delay Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Recirculation LED, or the Automatic Temperature Control
(ATC) heater-A/C control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
c. The calibration procedure should take less than three minutes to complete for the manual system, and less than twenty
seconds for the ATC system. When the LED's or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
d. If the LED's or graphics continue to flash beyond the time stated above, it indicates that the heater-A/C control system
has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Use the DRBIII(R) scan tool and the appropriate
diagnostic information for further diagnosis.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
The resistor is relatively in expensive and easy to change...I recently had to change it in my 06 pacifica, upon doing research, I found the resistor to be a common problem in several dodge/chrysler models from these few years. Most stores wanted $80+ for the resistor, Autozone was $12.xx. It is very unlikely that blower motors go bad.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
Used the bulletin board - swapped out the resistor and it works now.
Thanks for the bulletin boards...
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
Testimonial: "1 problem; 1 solution; 1 fix...great work!!!"
Access the blower motor resistor board located behind the glove box. Take a jumper wire and ground each of the Dark Blue wires that have tracers on them one at a time. Caution: do not ground out the plain Dark Blue wire or a fuse will blow. As each wire (with the tracer) is grounded, the blower motor should run at a different speed. If it does not, the resistor board has failed.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
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