Question about 1998 Ford Windstar

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Can a 1998 ford windstar be hot-wired?

I have a 98 windstar with 3.8. The key cylinder turns with no stop for on/run. the starter will not engage when key is turned fully clockwise. nothing happens at all other than the idiot lights come on and can not be turned off other than disconnecting the battery. reconnect the battery and the idiot lights come back on. ignition key cylinder seems well worn and sloppy. there are two elec connectors that seem to have been attached to the housing for the cylinder. they are broken and seem to be of no use to the van running as they have not been attached to anything prior to my ownership. will a key cylinder replacement sove the problem or is there a switch controlled by the actuator rod somewhere down the steering column? please tell me of what the problems may be and what i can do about the problem.

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  • Ford Master
  • 22,326 Answers

Do not damage the key reading transponder but a i think a new barrel might cure the problem ,yes you could hotwire it to move it but make sure the key is in to stop the steering lock coming on and to be read by the transponder to release the immobilisor

Posted on Dec 30, 2013

Testimonial: "Thanks for the quick response. I don't think there is a key reader active on this van. The ignition key is just a plain ford key with no chip. Can you instruct me on how to hotwire the van? Is the key cylinder the problem or is there a switch someplace I need to look at?"

  • 2 more comments 
  • Geoffrey White
    Geoffrey White Dec 31, 2013

    Hmmm, not referring to Dennis personally, but should anyone post such info here for the world to read?

  • Geoffrey White
    Geoffrey White Dec 31, 2013

    Oops... so post an email for the info if anyone has it.

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Dec 31, 2013

    sure this vehicle has a chipped key ,it may not look like it but iam sure it has one ,my escort has one yet it has a plain key with a black head .to hotwire a car you only need three wires bared back two connected togther so the ign lights come on then touch this with the third to fire the starter motor up ,If you do fit a new barrel then this age ford doesnt need the dealer to reset the key you just turn key on and off 4 timn

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Dec 31, 2013

    times in rapid succesion and the car will bleep then back to acc position and then on again and the new key will be programmed ,you can programme up to 10 keys .cannot remember the sequence correctly but i do have it in my alldata book now remember this is for ford europe cars from 96 too 2001

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 140 Answers

SOURCE: ignition broken and want to bypass steering wheel lock mechanism-

its not that had to replace the ignition switch, remove the steering wheel, u will need to buy a ighition removal tool, push plate down, remove plate and the switch will slide right out.. go to advanced auto parts and they will tell you all the tools you will need to replace the switch, and they have a loaner tool program, so just buy the tool and take it back and get your money back.. good luck keith...

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 95 F150 wont crank

the starter should be replaced. The solenoid is kikcing the pinion out but there is no contact being made to turn the starter motor. I have the exact same truck and before i changed the starter used the old starter tap trick. Tap the starter casing with a hammer and it should start turning again. hope this was helpful for you. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 ford f-150 nothing happens when ignition is turned on

Solenoid was not mentioned as replaced.

If it was not part of new starter...that's the culprit.

Ignition switch (smaller wire) activates the solenoid (heavier wire) which in turn activates the (high current) starter.

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

  • 114 Answers

SOURCE: Need a wiring diagram for a 1969 Ford F250.

there should be a slot for each wire on back of ignition play with them till you get it right cant hurt anything

Posted on Jan 14, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1984 ford f-150. when

The actuator rod has a spring and block the returns the actuator to its normal position. Sounds like one of the three parts are broke. If this is a tilt steering column there is a two piece actuator rod. I am in the process of replacing the upper actuator rod, the pin that connects it to the lower actuator broke off. Never had any ignition problems, one day it just won't turn off due to broken actuator rod. Hope this helps you.

Posted on Jan 06, 2011

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I think your reverse to park trick was a fluke,, I assume it turns over but since it is a 1995 you dont have a OBD 2 in the vehicle.
How to pull ECU error codes for 87-95 Pathfinders and Hardbody pickups:


The ECU is under your passenger's side seat. You can gain access to it by simply sliding the seat all the way forward and removing the plastic cover from the ECU. You can also remove the seat if you want, it makes access a little easier.

The VG30i ECU's have a tiny toggle switch on the side of the ECU with a small snap-in switch cover that must be utilized to select the diagnostic mode of the ECU. The 4-cylinder ECU and the VG30E ECU has a slotted switch that turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise and counterclockwise to do the same task. Some early 4-cyl HB ECU's have the switch as well. In any case it will have one or the other.

For 4-cylinder:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code. (number of long flashes is the 1st digit, number of short flashes is the 2nd digit)
4. To clear all stored codes and turn the check engine light off, turn the screw fully clockwise while it is in diagnostic mode. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
5. To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine
light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.

For V6:
1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on.
2. For VG30i: There is a little plastic tab you pull off of the side of the ECU(facing the door). A small toggle switch is behind it with 2 positions, "ON" and "DIAGNOSTICS". Using a small screwdriver or tool, move it to the diagnostics position. The red and green LED's on top of the ECU will blink simultaneously. One time, pause, then 2 times, three times, pause...so on for each mode, 1 through 5. Mode 3 is the most commonly used mode and will yield the ECU trouble codes you need to figure out what's going on with your engine.
For VG30E with slotted switch: Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.
3. After it blinks both LED's 3 times move the toggle switch back to the on position. After about five seconds it will start to output out the diagnostic codes as with the 4-cylinder ECU. Note each code as it is displayed, the red LED flashing once for 10's, and the green LED flashing once for 1's. Meaning: One red flash and two green flashes means code 12.
4. To clear the ECU of any trouble codes, move the switch to the "DIAGNOSTICS" position then back to the "ON" position and turn off the key.

1986.5-1995 Nissan ECU Flash Codes(all engines)

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
44 ECCS Normal Operation.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

ECU Diagnostic Mode Procedures
Mode I - Exhaust Oxygen Sensor Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode I to determine if the Oxygen Sensor is functioning properly.

Warm the engine to normal temperature.
Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU.
Make sure the GREEN LED goes on and off more than five times during ten seconds at 2000 RPM.
If the number of flashes are not more than five, replace the oxygen sensor. If the LED does not flash, check the sensor's circuit.


Mode II - Mixture Ratio Control Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode II to determine if the air/fuel mixture is cycling correctly.

Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise (or if you have a switch, turn it on).
After the LED flashes twice, turn the dial fully counter clockwise (or turn the switch off).
Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU.
If the RED LED blinks simultaneously with the GREEN LED, the air/fuel mixture is cycling properly.
If the RED LED stays off, the mixture is more than 5% rich.
If the RED LED stays on, the mixture is more than 5% lean.
If the RED LED stays on or off above 2000 RPM, complete the diagnostics before beginning repairs.


Mode III - Stored Fault Code Reporting
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode III to retrieve all stored trouble codes in memory.
Use the above posted procedures.


Mode IV - Switch Operation Monitor
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Use Mode IV to determine if the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Starter circuit and/or Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) are in proper working order.

Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise. After the LED flashes 4 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
Make sure the RED LED is turned off.
Make sure the RED LED turns on when depressing the gas pedal. If not, check or replace the Throttle Position Sensor.
Make sure the RED LED turns on when turning the ignition key the START position. If not, check or replace the starter.
Drive the vehicle with the ECU unbolted and within view. Make sure the GREEN LED turns on when speed is 12 MPH or more. If not, check or replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor.


Mode V - Real Time Diagnostic Function
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Use Mode V to determine if the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and/or Ignition signal are working properly.

Start engine.
Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise.
After the LED flashes 5 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
Make sure LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes when racing or idling the engine.
If it flashes, count the number of flashes, turn engine off, and see the following 3 paragraphs. Perform real-time diagnosis inspection and repair or replace malfunctioning part if present.
if LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes, turn engine off.

If the RED LED flashes 3 times for 1.5 seconds, check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Check the harness continuity at CPS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes twice-3 times for 0.5 seconds, check Mass Air Flow Sensor. Check the harness continuity at MAFS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes 4 times for 0.2 seconds 3 times, check the ignition signal. Check the harness continuity when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

Hope this helps...
__________________

Feb 11, 2018 | 1995 Nissan Pickup

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